The Lance J. Technoweb

I've transitioned to Comcast NOW, a lower speed, lower cost alternative.  The kids have grown up and moved out.  I'm spending much more of my time traveling.  I don't need the high speeds at home like I used to. This transition promises to save me $240 dollars a year versus my old "discounted" plan. Xfinity to Comcast Now transitioning process I went to the Xfinity store and told them I was cancelling two weeks out.  This isn't weird - people move all the time, so they do have a process for cancelling at a future ("move-out") date. Later the same day, I was able to go to the Comcast website and order the NOW modem for the new service. Note that Comcast didn't let me do this until I had a future cancel order in place.  Three days later, the modem arrived via FedEx. The cancel date came and went - Xfinity seems to have a grace period, so the old modem wasn't unceremoniously yanked out of service at midnight.  This made the transition smooth.  ...

There are a lot of cable modems on the market, and many are compatible with Xfinity service. However, that doesn't mean that every modem is perfect. My basic requirements are: Currently certified by my ISP.  Buying a cable modem that isn't currently certified is simply unlikely to work. Capable of supporting needed service speeds.  Buying a cable modem which cannot deliver the service needed is going to be an immediate bottlebeck.  Buying a cable modem which is far more capable that the service speed is likely a waste of money, No built-in WiFi capability or Telephone line capability.  A personally-owned WiFi router is likely a better choice than an all-in-one unit that will need to be positioned exactly where the cable is within the house.  Don't over-buy.  Cable modems do not last forever.  Manufacturers abandon support, and cable modems aren't infinitely durable due to things like lightning strikes and being powered on for years at a time. So what ...

I happened upon a set of Coax to Ethernet adapters and I decided to do an analysis of them. The adapters I found, by Commscope, use the G.hn protocol.  This protocol is used for many media types, with the general idea that existing or legacy cabling can be repurposed for modern home networking. I have some existing idle Coax in the walls and ceiling of my house, so I decided to try these adapters with this legacy copper.  Testing The home coax run I decided to try is a bit more than 10 meters long. I set up two PC clients on my network, with one PC being attached to one of these adapters, which was then attached to the 10 meter long cable. At the far end I attached the other adapter, which was then attached to my primary Ethernet switch.   The coax cable was in three distinct segments, 1 meter + 10 meters + 0.5 meters, all joined together with F-style couplers.   Network tested via iPerf   Results I successfully ran four trials of iPerf3 between my two PCs,...

I often find it challenging to find specific Xfinity web pages used manage my Internet service. Here is the list of URLs that I am often struggling to find. Status, and Remotely restarting the modem      https://www.xfinity.com/support/status      Under "Internet", there should be a Cable Modem entry that says "Connected" and which has a Restart button.   Monthly Data Usage      https://customer.xfinity.com/#/devices#usage Also in JSON form at       https://customer.xfinity.com/apis/csp/account/me/services/internet/usage?filter=internet Hotspot List      https://customer.xfinity.com/#/settings/security/hotspot-devices Speed Testing This is my go-to speed testing service.  It provides a lot of great information.  It isn't a Comcast service, but it does a great job.      https://speed.cloudflare.com/       

I frequently read about how Puma-based DOCSIS modems have severe latency problems.  Back in 2016, a user on DSL Reports who states that he is an "EE" that "designs electronics" did an analysis and claimed that he found very frequent and repeatable ~250 ms latency spikes due to his modem's Puma chipset.  (It is important to note that this person did not claim to have any professional or academic credentials in networking.) The data he published - a repeatable and consistent 250 ms latency - seems so bizarre that I found it almost impossible to fathom that his findings were typical behavior, or that ISPs would certify such poorly behaving modems. Later in 2016, an article was published that amplified his claims and his story took off as "the experience of everyone with a Puma-based modem". By April 2017, another article was published in The Register stating that someone was pursuing a class action lawsuit against Arris related to Puma-based modems. [T...

 It has been a few years since installing my network backboard.  Since then, I've made a few updates.  Gear changes I relocated my Apple TV HD from the backboard to my living room, since I now I have a TV.  The Apple TV still functions as my HomeKit hub.  I added a MikroTik hAP AC2 to operate as my network router, replacing my hAP AC Lite. I added an Arris cable modem, replacing my hAP AC Lite WISP strategy I added a CyberPower UPS to the backboard.  I added a custom-built 12v DC power system, used to power my router, modem, and doorbell: I added a voltage boost converter so I could power the Ring doorbell with a 12VDC power supply.  My Ring wants about 14VDC minimum. I removed the less efficient 16.5 VAC transformer that previously powered the Ring In all, my backboard is consuming about 24 watts of power, which includes powering these devices: MikroTik hAP AC2 router PoE gigabit switch (with attached MikroTik Cap AC access point) HD HomeRun TV Tuner ...

There are many choices when powering a wired Ring Video Doorbell.  Most people just reuse their existing doorbell power, but I wanted to see if I could improve that situation. When I first hooked up my Ring Wired Doorbell , I used an existing Honeywell Plug-in AC Transformer .  These AC transformers are very popular for both video doorbells, traditional doorbells, and security systems.  They reduce standard home voltages (120VAC in North America) to 16.5 VAC. In contrast, modern DC power adapters for home electronics are efficient. There are global efficiency standards on modern adapters , and in the USA the current efficiency standard is called "Level VI".  These efficiency standards help ensure that idle equipment has near-zero power draw, and that active equipment isn't wildly inefficient. The thing is, the standards are for modern single-voltage DC power adapters, but given that my Ring Wired Doorbell was hooked up to my home's 1990's vintage AC doorbell ...

I have a love/hate relationship with the TP-Link DECO X20 . I have a few of these set up in other peoples' homes. There are the things that I love about the X20, but they have serious limitations that I strongly dislike. I would recommend them to some people, but I would never buy one for my own home. Here are the details why. Overview The Deco X20 is a cute-looking WiFi6 (802.11ax) mesh router system. You can buy them in one , two , or three node packs. You can add more nodes later if you wish. One of my setups is a three node system, and one is a two node system.  It might be wisest to buy the three pack and sell off any nodes you don't need. Each node is a dual radio device, with optional Ethernet back-haul. Each node has two Ethernet ports that can be used for wan uplink, lan, or client device They look like pretty little cylinders with an external power brick. The Good These are stupidly easy to set up. There is very little configuration that needs to happen. They are pre...

An unfinished attic can be an extreme environment for electronic equipment, with conditions that are very unlike what is experienced inside normal living spaces. What's the deal with installing electronic equipment in an unfinished and uninsulated attic?   I wanted to install a standard WiFi router in my attic to function as a Wireless ISP (WISP) gateway. My attic is a fantastic location from a radio signal perspective, but it is an uncomfortable place for both people and electronic gear. Although the attic is well insulated, that insulation is on the floor, designed to keep the living space of my home at moderate temperatures. As a WISP gateway, my WiFi router is best mounted above the insulation and close to the roof, where the only protection from weather extremes is the wood of the roof and a layer of asphalt shingles. Equipment Specifications and Extremes Almost all electronic equipment has a set of specifications regarding operating environment. These specifications state the...

A lot of home WiFi stinks because the WiFi device is poorly placed. The beauty of a ceiling mounted WiFi access point is that it can be positioned optimally for signal excellence. And with excellent signal strength you can get away with many fewer WiFi units, resulting in lower costs, higher speeds, and higher reliability. I was remodeling my house, and during the work the ceiling near the center of my house became fairly accessible. I figured that a single optimally-positioned WiFi access point might be able provide WiFi to my entire house. Initial Planning I chose to buy a MikroTik cAP AC WiFi access point. This is a great little device, and I've had a lot of fun and success with MikroTik, and the price was right. The MikroTik is powered over Ethernet (PoE), as are most professional-class WiFi access points. This means that the device doesn't need any additional power outlets or cables. There are many ways to do Power over Ethernet (PoE). The MikroTik cAP AC comes with an E...

The outside of my house had an ugly nest of telephone and cable TV wires.  These wires were installed decades ago (between 1925 and 2005) and no one cared how it looked.  Ugly is a problem from reasons other than aesthetics: reliability and understandability.  My mission: Pretty up any potentially useful wiring, and remove any useless house wires.  Diagram 1: Wires Everywhere The east side of my home had a lot of wires, as seen in Diagram 1.  There was a telephone feed (red) that went to a telephone demarcation box, and then traveled along the building, where it finally popped in by the basement window.  In addition, there was a long-abandoned telephone feed (1920s?) that worked its way across the building and into to the basement. The cable TV wiring (blue) was bulkier and uglier.  It followed a slightly different route. The cable TV was also fed into multiple rooms by stringing it up along the facade.  I gave up using cable TV and wired telepho...

I wanted to mount an Apple TV, an HDHomerun, and a Ring doorbell transformer to a wall, but none of these devices have tabs or screw holes for wall mounting.  Happily, I found a way to easily and inexpensively wall mount equipment even if the device specifically designed with mounting in mind. There are a lot of expensive or complicated mounting options, but then there are cheaper AND better options. Specialized mounting brackets are available for many devices, but they can be stupidly expensive and then I'd have to wait for shipping.  Or I could 3D print some brackets.  My solution? I simply use zip ties and strategically placed screw-down cable tie mounts . Zip ties are very strong, and the screw mounts can be used to anchor down the zip ties while also preventing the devices from sliding out of position. This is actually far less wasteful than a specialty bracket. Special brackets use a lot of plastic. Zip ties may seem disposable, but they are actually reusable unles...

The backboard is the center of my home network, where all my home's data cables all my key network equipment come together. A sensibly-organized and managed backboard makes a network far easier to manage and maintain, and gives me room to grow.  Here is how I developed my backboard strategy, and the specifics of how I made it happen. Backboard Background Many people dream about using an equipment rack for their network gear, but even a small rack is expensive and inflexible.  So instead of "upgrading" to a rack, my home is now equipped with a completely redesigned network backboard. A backboard is a sheet of plywood where data cables and key network gear come together.  In my case, I wanted all the Ethernet cables to go into an Ethernet switch.  Then I wanted to mount my primary router and modem and other useful gear at the same location.  Similarly, all the cable TV cables would be distributed from this point. The building's original backboard was an insect-che...

I no longer use a cable company for Internet service. My new Internet service provider offers me Internet over WiFi, otherwise known as a Wireless ISP (WISP).  I use a WiFi router as the gateway to my WISP, and it was far easier to get reliable high performance than I originally envisioned.   My neighbor is a professional with a lot of Internet needs. He contracts with a company that has a huge Internet pipe, and he offers the service to the neighbors using 802.11ac wireless. Given my close proximity to him and the low cost of service, this is an incredible deal for Internet service.   At first I thought I would need to install a dedicated outdoor WiFi access point with a directional antenna to get a decent signal, but I decided to start simple and experiment with equipment I had around the house. Since I like the quality, functionality, and price point of MikroTik gear, I decided to start with the inexpensive MikroTik hAP AC Lite I had on hand. At first I connected to ...

I manage the Ethernet networks in several buildings.  One of the big questions out there is "Which Ethernet wiring standard: 568A or 568B, is the right one to use?" It is important to note that 568A and 568B are electrically identical.  A router or switch or other device won't be able to determine if a building's cabling is A or B.  The only difference between them is the colors of the wires used at each pin.  And Ethernet devices can't see colors.   How important is swapping Green and Orange?   It is also important to note that the standard used is only important in terms of installed building wiring.  It really doesn't matter for patch cords, where a single person can look at the pin-out colors at both ends without digging into wall boxes or crawling through closets. But if a specific cable inconsistently uses different wires at each end, that's a problem.  So what matters is consistency.  If you're consistent, all is good.  The goal i...

Today is the day! I am "installing Internet" in a friend's new city apartment. The goal: great Internet service for a group of young professionals, while keeping the cost as low as possible and the reliability very high. Here is the story of what I did to accomplish that goal. The overview of the who, what, and where: Four professionals, mostly working from home. Very densely populated urban environment. Comcast Xfinity is the area's wired, high-speed Internet monopoly. High reliability and reasonable performance for video chat is critical. Internet Service Ordering: Don't Over-Do It. Let's say you want to reduce your daily commute time. Right now you drive a stock Honda Civic that costs $80 a month. How much commuting time will you save by investing $200 a month on turbocharger? Zero hours and zero minutes. "Gigabit" download speeds are an extraordinary waste of money. Sure, we'll have four people being busy all day, but busy does not mean there...