The Lance J. Technoweb

I have a Black + Decker dust buster vacuum.  It works fine, but it comes with a silly and hard-to-replace power adapter.   It's only hard to replace due to the funky DC power connector.  Otherwise, it's just a cheapo 15vdc power adapter. Here are the tech details if you're thinking of replacing yours. BLACK+ DECKER CLASS 2 POWER SUPPLY P/N: 90629039 MODEL: SSC-150015US INPUT: 100-240VAC, 50/60Hz, 200mA OUTPUT: 15VDC, 150mA Mine puts out a voltage of 16.4 VDC when idle.  As I face the connector, the positive pin is on the right, as shown in the picture.   If my power adapter were to break, I'd save this unique DC connector and solder it to an aftermarket power adapter that matches these specs, perhaps something like this one on Amazon.  

A friend gave me a Crate battery guitar amp that he used for busking. It is a nice 15 watt amp with an internal battery. Sadly it died, and its custom power adapter was misplaced. After several years the battery will fail, and it requires a functioning battery to work at all. Happily, new batteries are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to install. Obtaining a replacement battery for the TX15 The original battery was a 4+ pound, sealed lead battery. Any replacement battery should closely follow the specs of the original. I bought this MightyMax Battery on Amazon , which is a perfect replacement. There are many batteries that conform to the needs of the TX15, and they can be found at local hardware stores as they are commonly used in lots of equipment. It pays to look locally if you need something faster than Amazon.  The battery specs are as follows: 12 Volt, 7.2 Ah lead battery (mine was marked 1272). Length: 5.94" (151 mm)  Width: 2.56" (65 mm) Height: 3.94" (100

I've decided to try to measure my household waste. All my trash ends up in a specific trash bin before I throw it out, and all my compost ends up in a specific compost bin. I take out the trash as infrequently as possible: it only happens when they're full or when they stink. So why not measure it while I'm at it? Using the magic of my postal scale and/or my luggage scale, I measure each bin before it goes into my trash barrels. Right now I am only measuring compost and trash, because I find that easiest. The Net Weight of my Waste Without further delay, here is my Waste Weight log. I use grams because metric is easier in terms of the math. Just remember that 1000 grams is roughly 2.2 pounds. Net Weight 2022-06-18: Compost.. 1594 grams 2022-06-18 : Trash....  990 grams 2022-06-27: Compost.. 2712 grams 2022-06-27: Trash. ...  904 grams 2022-07-02: Compost.. 1288 grams 2022-07-02: Trash. ... 1688 grams 2022-07-06: Compost.. 1144 grams  2022-07-16: Compost.. 1194 grams 2022-

You might have read that you can make your own foaming soap from regular liquid hand soap. You just add water to liquid hand soap, let it settle, and then those foaming dispensers can pump it exactly like the stuff you buy from the store. But what are the economics of it? That's what this posting is all about. Liquid Soap with my "custom mix" bottle To make foaming soap, I mix 32 ounces of water with 8 ounces of liquid soap, resulting in 40 ounces of foaming soap. That means each unit of liquid soap turns into 5 units of foaming soap. Therefore, my 56 ounce bottle of liquid soap becomes 280 ounces of foaming soap. What is the cost? Here you are: Store foaming handsoap..: 19.60¢ per fluid ounce Store liquid handsoap...:  7.66¢ per fluid ounce My home foaming handsoap:  1.53¢ per fluid ounce The Economic Conclusion All this means that my $4.29 jug of liquid soap can be turned into $54.90 worth of foaming soap. Yes, the store bought foaming soap is 13 times as expensive as m

The apartment building we own has "common" lighting in the hallways and stairwells. Lighting accounts for our largest share of electricity. I've worked over the years to reduce the lighting costs. Here is how I reduced our lighting expenses by a whopping 90%. Pursuit 1: 70% savings by moving from CFLs to LEDs and reducing bulb count My first pursuit was to simply transition from CFL lightbulbs to LEDs. LEDs are generally lower wattage than CFLs, and given the extraordinary reliability of quality LEDs, I no longer needed in-fixture bulb redundancy. I happened to come across a set of Energy Star certified Cree LED bulbs and used them to replace all of the old CFLs.† This reduced the building's lighting expense by about 70%. This change also greatly reduced my labor costs, because the CREE LEDs have been 100% reliable for the past 6 years, unlike the old bulbs which needed to replaced every year or so. The reliability of the CREE LEDs have been so high that over the pa

A few months back my dishwasher started to get noisy.  The wash cycle was taking a very long time, and  the dishes were coming out dirty. This turned out to be a water fill problem due to debris in my home's hot water pipes. In the end I solved my dishwasher's problem by flushing my home's hot water pipes.  Here is how I solved this problem. Dishwasher Problem Diagnosis After a few weeks of awful dishwasher behavior, I ended up opening its door in the middle of a cycle to see what was going on. It sure did look and sound like it was trying to pump water around, but it was clear that the spray was minimal. At first I imagined the problem was due to a clogged dishwasher filter or bad pump, but after disassembling all those things it was clear they were not the problem. Then I started to suspect that the dishwasher simply wasn't filling up with enough water. There was an easy way to test it: just add water. So at the start of a cycle I'd add about a liter of water and

I have a love/hate relationship with the TP-Link DECO X20 . I have a few of these set up in other peoples' homes. There are the things that I love about the X20, but they have serious limitations that I strongly dislike. I would recommend them to some people, but I would never buy one for my own home. Here are the details why. Overview The Deco X20 is a cute-looking WiFi6 (802.11ax) mesh router system. You can buy them in one , two , or three node packs. You can add more nodes later if you wish. One of my setups is a three node system, and one is a two node system.  It might be wisest to buy the three pack and sell off any nodes you don't need. Each node is a dual radio device, with optional Ethernet back-haul. Each node has two Ethernet ports that can be used for wan uplink, lan, or client device They look like pretty little cylinders with an external power brick. The Good These are stupidly easy to set up. There is very little configuration that needs to happen. They are pre

An unfinished attic can be an extreme environment for electronic equipment, with conditions that are very unlike what is experienced inside normal living spaces. What's the deal with installing electronic equipment in an unfinished and uninsulated attic?   I wanted to install a standard WiFi router in my attic to function as a Wireless ISP (WISP) gateway. My attic is a fantastic location from a radio signal perspective, but it is an uncomfortable place for both people and electronic gear. Although the attic is well insulated, that insulation is on the floor, designed to keep the living space of my home at moderate temperatures. As a WISP gateway, my WiFi router is best mounted above the insulation and close to the roof, where the only protection from weather extremes is the wood of the roof and a layer of asphalt shingles. Equipment Specifications and Extremes Almost all electronic equipment has a set of specifications regarding operating environment. These specifications state the

Modern US homes have a lot more electrical circuit protection than they once had. Ground and Arc fault circuits are great at preventing electrocution and house fires.  What is their power consumption? It's hard to be completely accurate here, but I've measured a bunch using a combination of my Kill-o-watt meter and my Emporia Gen 2 Vue .   My measurements suggest that these devices use roughly 0.5 watts each .  In total, that works out to 4.4 KWh per GFCI/AFCI per year: (0.5 watts x 8766 hrs/year) ÷ 1000 watts/KW = 4.383 KWh/year Again, this is an estimate . It could be 3.5 or 4.8 KWh per year, but you get the idea.  Total GFCI / AFCI Load On My Electricity Bill I have 27 circuits with these features ( 18 modern breakers and 9 outlets ). So multiplying 4.383 KWh/year by 27 circuits, and we get a total draw of 118.3 KWh/year. That's a measurable amount of money.  That's about $142 per decade using today's US-average electricity cost. The Cost/Value of GFCI / AFCI

The other day I went into my basement and there was a puddle of water on the floor.  It turned out that my front loading clothes washer was leaking. The drum was full of water to the point where it was dripping out of the open door. Yuk! It appears that one of the washer's internal inlet valves has a slow drip leak.  I ended up closing the door and running a "rinse" cycle to pump out the water.  Happily, it seems like the very first thing the washer does is drain the drum. (A better design might have the washer pump out water on its own when it unexpectedly hits a high-water mark, but maybe there is a good reason not to do so.) Then I ran some loads of laundry because, hey, I still have to do laundry and no slow leak is going to stop laundry. Happily, affordable replacement washer inlet valves are available , and they are relatively easy to replace.  But there's bad news: I don't like to fix non-broken things, so I need to identify which valve (hot or cold) is lea

I've been doing some serious electricity power monitoring at my house to see how I can reduce my electricity consumption and costs. I have an 8-sensor Emporia Vue home electricity monitor and a Kill-o-Watt power meter , so I'm well equipped to identify what is chewing down the electricity I pay for.  When I first installed my Emporia Vue, I found that my house was always consuming at least 128 watts of power.  I'll call this my house's base load.  What made up these 128 watts?  Phantom loads?  Let's Discuss! Phantom Load or Not? A phantom load, by one definition, is equipment that is always consuming some electricity even though it is not in active use. This is commonly understood as "standby power consumption".  But another definition of phantom load is equipment that is inexplicably consuming significant power for no known useful reason. We might call this "completely stupid power consumption". I had both types: standby power and crazy-off-the

A lot of home WiFi stinks because the WiFi device is poorly placed. The beauty of a ceiling mounted WiFi access point is that it can be positioned optimally for signal excellence. And with excellent signal strength you can get away with many fewer WiFi units, resulting in lower costs, higher speeds, and higher reliability. I was remodeling my house, and during the work the ceiling near the center of my house became fairly accessible. I figured that a single optimally-positioned WiFi access point might be able provide WiFi to my entire house. Initial Planning I chose to buy a MikroTik cAP AC WiFi access point. This is a great little device, and I've had a lot of fun and success with MikroTik, and the price was right. The MikroTik is powered over Ethernet (PoE), as are most professional-class WiFi access points. This means that the device doesn't need any additional power outlets or cables. There are many ways to do Power over Ethernet (PoE). The MikroTik cAP AC comes with an E

The outside of my house had an ugly nest of telephone and cable TV wires.  These wires were installed decades ago (between 1925 and 2005) and no one cared how it looked.  Ugly is a problem from reasons other than aesthetics: reliability and understandability.  My mission: Pretty up any potentially useful wiring, and remove any useless house wires.  Diagram 1: Wires Everywhere The east side of my home had a lot of wires, as seen in Diagram 1.  There was a telephone feed (red) that went to a telephone demarcation box, and then traveled along the building, where it finally popped in by the basement window.  In addition, there was a long-abandoned telephone feed (1920s?) that worked its way across the building and into to the basement. The cable TV wiring (blue) was bulkier and uglier.  It followed a slightly different route. The cable TV was also fed into multiple rooms by stringing it up along the facade.  I gave up using cable TV and wired telephone over a decade ago, but I don't

I wanted to mount an Apple TV, an HDHomerun, and a Ring doorbell transformer to a wall, but none of these devices have tabs or screw holes for wall mounting.  Happily, I found a way to easily and inexpensively wall mount equipment even if the device specifically designed with mounting in mind. There are a lot of expensive or complicated mounting options, but then there are cheaper AND better options. Specialized mounting brackets are available for many devices, but they can be stupidly expensive and then I'd have to wait for shipping.  Or I could 3D print some brackets.  My solution? I simply use zip ties and strategically placed screw-down cable tie mounts . Zip ties are very strong, and the screw mounts can be used to anchor down the zip ties while also preventing the devices from sliding out of position. This is actually far less wasteful than a specialty bracket. Special brackets use a lot of plastic. Zip ties may seem disposable, but they are actually reusable unless you'

The backboard is the center of my home network, where all my home's data cables all my key network equipment come together. A sensibly-organized and managed backboard makes a network far easier to manage and maintain, and gives me room to grow.  Here is how I developed my backboard strategy, and the specifics of how I made it happen. Backboard Background Many people dream about using an equipment rack for their network gear, but even a small rack is expensive and inflexible.  So instead of "upgrading" to a rack, my home is now equipped with a completely redesigned network backboard. A backboard is a sheet of plywood where data cables and key network gear come together.  In my case, I wanted all the Ethernet cables to go into an Ethernet switch.  Then I wanted to mount my primary router and modem and other useful gear at the same location.  Similarly, all the cable TV cables would be distributed from this point. The building's original backboard was an insect-chewed 8