Skip to main content

The Essential Electric Base Load of My House

I've been doing some serious electricity power monitoring at my house to see how I can reduce my electricity consumption and costs.

I have an 8-sensor Emporia Vue home electricity monitor and a Kill-o-Watt power meter, so I'm well equipped to identify what is chewing down the electricity I pay for. 

Circuit Breakers

When I first installed my Emporia Vue, I found that my house was always consuming at least 128 watts of power.  I'll call this my house's base load.  What made up these 128 watts?  Phantom loads?  Let's Discuss!

Phantom Load or Not?

A phantom load, by one definition, is equipment that is always consuming some electricity even though it is not in active use. This is commonly understood as "standby power consumption".  But another definition of phantom load is equipment that is inexplicably consuming significant power for no known useful reason. We might call this "completely stupid power consumption".

I had both types: standby power and crazy-off-the-charts useless power waste.

My AC unit was always eating at 45 watts. My furnace had thermostatic heat tape that was always using 10 watts. Why?  No idea. All together, these two phantom loads were using 482 KWh a year, or 4.820 MWh in a decade. 4.8 Megawatt-hours is a very, very substantial amount of beer money.

On the other hand, my basement HVAC is always consuming 3 watts, but it is always on standby ready to be automatically called into service. The HVAC consumes standby power, but I'd be hesitant to call it a problem as heat is an essential home service where I live and its power draw is reasonable by today's standards.

Essential Equipment Base Load

My first question is: What is the power consumption of the essential equipment in my home?

I consider essential equipment to be equipment that is traditionally considered part of the building and is necessary for the building and its occupants.   This includes HVAC, major appliances, security and safety equipment, sump pumps, and (these days) basic networking gear.  Being "base load" means that this equipment is on standby, but it isn't running.  Therefore, the essential equipment base load is the bare minimum power my house will use, even if no one is occupying the house.

Here is my remain list of the devices that make up the "essential base load" of my house

Safety Systems: 20.8 Watts

Data communications backboard: 20.6 Watts

This is all my networking gear: WiFi access point, Internet gateway router, PoE switch, Ring doorbell system, whole-home TV tuner, and Apple TV.  This equipment, attached to my basement networking backboard, provides what I consider essential home network services.  They collectively account for 20.6 watts of power total. 

Appliances: 12.3 Watts

Some appliances are always on, even when idle.  Here's what I have:

  • Refrigerator: 3 watts.  Its electronic control system is always on.
  • Kitchen Range: 7.3 watts. Stupidly high. It just has a clock that's on while idle.  Gr.
  • Dishwasher: 1 watt. It has a digital control panel, so it is always eating some juice.
  • Clothes washer: 1 watt. Again, it has a digital control panel, so it is always doing something.
  • Clothes dryer: 0 watts.  It is old-school and consumes nothing while idle.

HVAC: 10.8 Watts

I have two units, both with Ecobee 3 lite thermostats. When they're in standby mode, the two HVAC systems collectively consume 10.8 watts of power.  (I flipped off one of the two (dissimilar) outdoor AC units, as it was stupidly consuming 45 watts all the time, and I removed always-hungry heat tape.  WTF?)

Other Items: 4.8 watts

Total Essential Base Load: 72 Watts

Adding all these devices together and I get about 69 watts, which matches my typical low-water mark reported by my Emporia Vue of 72 watts.  Multiply that by 8766 hours and a year and we get 640 KWH used power year.  That's still substantial beer money, but I can't see a way to easily reduce that number.

What isn't included

This 73 watts of "essential base load" doesn't include any of the following that is normally install by the occupier, and it doesn't include equipment that isn't always plugged in.  

For example, these items are not included:

  • Home automation "smart" outlets
  • Wall powered plug-in alarm clocks
  • TV or radios
  • Phone chargers
  • Computers, printers, etc, except for essential home equipment noted above
  • Any equipment doing any real work (HVAC, Fridge, Dishwasher, etc)
  • Any lighting
  • Basement dehumidifier, which I have on standby seasonably (basically from late spring to early fall)

So this 73 watts is the bare minimum load of the essential building devices for any minute of the year. 

Next Steps

In a future article, I will add up my "occupier equipment base load".  This will include idle home equipment like device chargers, printers, TV, and so-forth.  Think of this next number as the power consumption of all the clocks and TVs and stuff that people move in with.  Stay tuned.


Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Picking a Cable Modem for Xfinity

There are a lot of cable modems on the market, and many are compatible with Xfinity service. However, that doesn't mean that every modem is perfect. My basic requirements are: Currently certified by my ISP.  Buying a cable modem that isn't currently certified is simply unlikely to work. Capable of supporting needed service speeds.  Buying a cable modem which cannot deliver the service needed is going to be an immediate bottlebeck.  Buying a cable modem which is far more capable that the service speed is likely a waste of money, No built-in WiFi capability or Telephone line capability.  A personally-owned WiFi router is likely a better choice than an all-in-one unit that will need to be positioned exactly where the cable is within the house.  Don't over-buy.  Cable modems do not last forever.  Manufacturers abandon support, and cable modems aren't infinitely durable due to things like lightning strikes and being powered on for years at a time. So what ...

Old Apple gear that keeps on ticking

I've been dealing with Apple computer gear for a long time, as have my friends and family. Here is a list of the old gear that me and/or my friends have in active service.   Note that this gear is in real service, and isn't treated as museum pieces or as part of a retro-computing hobby. 2008: Apple Airport Express, draft-N, first generation 2009: Apple MacBook, late 2009 (utility use only) 2010: Apple iPod nano, 6th generation 2013: Apple Airport Extreme AC 2015: Apple TV HD (4th generation) The big winner here is the Airport Express, which is modern enough to do its job, and it just keeps on going.  The device that my friend runs has been in operation for more than 125000 hours.  It received its most recent firmware update on 28 August 2018, 10+ years after its initial release. In terms of security: it has no open, unpatched CVE vulnerability reports.  Many generations of other routers have come and go while this one keeps going.

Transitioning to Comcast Now!

I've transitioned to Comcast NOW, a lower speed, lower cost alternative.  The kids have grown up and moved out.  I'm spending much more of my time traveling.  I don't need the high speeds at home like I used to. This transition promises to save me $240 dollars a year versus my old "discounted" plan. Xfinity to Comcast Now transitioning process I went to the Xfinity store and told them I was cancelling two weeks out.  This isn't weird - people move all the time, so they do have a process for cancelling at a future ("move-out") date. Later the same day, I was able to go to the Comcast website and order the NOW modem for the new service. Note that Comcast didn't let me do this until I had a future cancel order in place.  Three days later, the modem arrived via FedEx. The cancel date came and went - Xfinity seems to have a grace period, so the old modem wasn't unceremoniously yanked out of service at midnight.  This made the transition smooth.  ...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...

Other Posts

Show more