Skip to main content

Modernizing old house network wiring - Part 14 - Fixing Ugly Outdoor Wiring

The outside of my house had an ugly nest of telephone and cable TV wires.  These wires were installed decades ago (between 1925 and 2005) and no one cared how it looked.  Ugly is a problem from reasons other than aesthetics: reliability and understandability.  My mission: Pretty up any potentially useful wiring, and remove any useless house wires. 

Nest of Wires on Building Facade
Diagram 1: Wires Everywhere

The east side of my home had a lot of wires, as seen in Diagram 1.  There was a telephone feed (red) that went to a telephone demarcation box, and then traveled along the building, where it finally popped in by the basement window.  In addition, there was a long-abandoned telephone feed (1920s?) that worked its way across the building and into to the basement.

The cable TV wiring (blue) was bulkier and uglier.  It followed a slightly different route. The cable TV was also fed into multiple rooms by stringing it up along the facade. 

I gave up using cable TV and wired telephone over a decade ago, but I don't necessarily want to rip out  wiring that was properly installed and that could be useful in the future. Therefore, my approach is to keep all the wires that run properly within the walls and eliminate the rest. And I'll keep the feeds from the street in place, just in case I ever want restore these legacy services.

Removing "Bad" House Wiring

Since the telephone and cable TV services were "disconnected" from the service providers' billing prospective, the first thing I did was to physically disconnect the cables from their demarcation point.  That means I kept the telephone and cable tv company wall boxes in place, along with their wiring from the street, but the feeds on the house side was disconnected.  Now I could freely and safely go after the wires on the house.

But before ripping things out, I wanted to make sure I was removing the right coax cables. I used an inexpensive cable TV tester to verify the ends of each cable, and labelled them with some tape.  After all, the worse thing to do would be to mistakenly cut a cable I wanted to keep.

After identifying each cable, I used some diagonal cutters to clip the cables at the wall, and then went inside the house and yanked the cables through.  I then had 5 holes in the facade to plug up, so I squirted in some insulating foam and patched the holes using outdoor patch filler.

Cleaning Up the Companys' Work

The next thing to do was to clean up the service providers' demarcation boxes.  I opened up the boxes and unscrewed them from the wall.  I then repositioned the boxes in a useful and aesthetically pleasing manner.  I also drilled a new hole in the facade, adjacent to the boxes, so that the wires could enter the basement without traversing the outside of the building.

Results

This project was easy, but it had a significantly positive impact.  The mass of wires and cables is gone. Now there is one simple cable path for the cable TV and telephone wires, and one hole in the facade for the cables to enter the building.  There are no other cables strung up on the outside of the building.

Neatly Organized Wires on Building Facade
Diagram 2: Much improved wiring.

More importantly, I lost nothing: the cables were not in active use, and if I ever did want to restore service, all I would have to do is call up one of the companies and have them turn on service.  For the three rooms that lost their cable TV jacks: it is easy to feed any location of the building by pulling wires through the walls with a steel fish tape.  But that's a topic for another day.

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a...

Robust Installation of an HDHomeRun Networked TV Tuner. 64 OTA channels!

I added an HDHomerun (HDHR) over-the-air (OTA) streaming box to my home network, bringing over-the-air broadcast TV to my computers, phones and tablets.  The HDHR is a big upgrade from my previous setup: using a simple "window mount" antenna directly connected to my TV. A TV-attached antenna is good for watching some TV for free, but the HDHR offers so much more flexibility. Figure 0: HDHomeRun on my basement wall   My original OTA TV setup was haphazard at best. It was finicky, ugly, and hard for other people at home to use. I would actually tape my antenna to a window whenever I wanted to watch OTA TV. Plus, it only worked on my TV and not with my other devices. I wanted a cleaner and more modern OTA setup. After looking at possibilities, I developed two goals: (1) bring my OTA TV into the modern Internet-connected era, and (2) set it up in a reliable and pretty way so that other family members wouldn't have to fool around with the antenna or anything else.  With that,...

Dustbuster Switch Repair

My Dustbuster vacuum - a CHV-1410, gets a lot of use.  We use it several times per day, every day.  It is a workhorse. Sadly, it was becoming unreliable.  It would be fully charged, and I'd hit the switch and maybe it would begin to start and then stop, or it would lurch and stop - or maybe it would do nothing. My CHV-1410 had a broken switch At first I thought it was the battery, but then I found that by carefully wiggling the switch I was sometimes able to get the vacuum to work.  All that on-off action over the years made the switch unreliable. Instead of throwing away an otherwise perfectly good vacuum, I decided to replace the worn switch.  It's an easy and worthwhile repair with the right part. The one special part needed: A specific $5 Switch There seems to be two types of switches used in these, based on the charging mechanism: For the Lithium models (CHV-1410L and similar), I notice that there are only two conductors are attached to the sw...

MacBook: burnt out magsafe connector repair

My MacBook (A1342 model from 2009-2010) stopped working, thanks to a cheap knockoff magsafe charger. The magsafe connector looked burnt with heat-distorted melted plastic and some black carbon surfaces.  Plugging in the charger resulted in no lights and no action.  My MacBook was dead. First I tried to clean up the connector with some Q-Tips, tooth picks and solvent, but that did little, as seen in this "after" picture (below).   The heat generated by the aftermarket charger permanently deformed and distorted the MacBook's magsafe connector.  Clearly the damage was significant. Burnt Magsafe Connector - Replacement Required! Looking at iFixIt , I determined that it would not be difficult to replace only the magsafe connector with the right tools.  I hoped and prayed that the problem was isolated to the connector assembly and not the logic board. I bought a replacement magsafe connector assembly (available from Amazon) for under $20 and started to rep...

Excellent DD-WRT Router for Me: Netgear WNDR3400 / N600

My WiFi performance was suffering, and so I decided to do something about it and upgrade my router. When I say my WiFi performance was suffering, I really mean it:  I live in a large high-rise apartment building and there are 100+ WiFi access points visible from my home office.  All of the contentious traffic was severely curtailing my WiFi reliability.  I was lucky to get 1 Mbit/second throughput.  Sometimes I was lucky to stay connected even with my WiFi router in the same room. I decided it was time to go for 5 GHz, which is a WiFi band which is used less frequently and which has a tougher time traversing walls.  And of course I wanted DD-WRT support.  The set of features I was looking for included: Trouble-free DD-WRT support 5 GHz 802.11n Support Simultaneous dual band capability Inexpensive.  Maybe even cheap.  For me this means under $50.  Under $35 is even better! It sounds like an easy task to bring all this together: A...

Other Posts

Show more