Skip to main content

Hot (and Cold) Attic Tempertures and Electronic Equipment

An unfinished attic can be an extreme environment for electronic equipment, with conditions that are very unlike what is experienced inside normal living spaces. What's the deal with installing electronic equipment in an unfinished and uninsulated attic?

Attic Space
 

I wanted to install a standard WiFi router in my attic to function as a Wireless ISP (WISP) gateway. My attic is a fantastic location from a radio signal perspective, but it is an uncomfortable place for both people and electronic gear. Although the attic is well insulated, that insulation is on the floor, designed to keep the living space of my home at moderate temperatures. As a WISP gateway, my WiFi router is best mounted above the insulation and close to the roof, where the only protection from weather extremes is the wood of the roof and a layer of asphalt shingles.

Equipment Specifications and Extremes

Almost all electronic equipment has a set of specifications regarding operating environment. These specifications state the conditions required for reliable operation. These specs are ignored by most people, because most equipment is designed to work alongside people. But if you're installing equipment in an unfinished attic, crawl space, shed, or garage, these specifications may become critical.

Why can't all electronic equipment withstand a huge range of conditions? Generally it is due to cost. Some electronic components may misbehave when temperatures fall below or rise above a specific threshold. For example, a display panel, battery, or capacitor that contains some liquid can behave very differently if that liquid freezes, or if that liquid turns to vapor. Similarly, very high humidity can alter circuit resistance. The impact of the environment on electronic gear can be significant.  Conditions outside of the norm of  needs some thought.

The Attic Environment

So what are the details of the environment in my attic, and is it compatible with my equipment?

Attic Protection

The attic, being a hat for a home, is designed to keep rain and snow and pests out. My home has asphalt shingles that do a great job of weather protection. I do not expect to see any rain or snow inside the attic area at all, ever. It should be dry 365 days a year.

My attic has some passive air vents. There is a ridge vent along the top of the roof line, and there are larger air vents located at the gables. These vents should help keep attic temperatures somewhat similar to outdoor temperatures, but more on that later.

All the vents are screened, and there are no (known) holes in the attic, so I do not expect any rodents, birds, or insects in there. Nobody needs those pests, and that includes electronic equipment. That said, some insects may find their way inside, so there is a bit of a risk that insects may crawl into equipment to find warmth.

Attic Potential for Cold

Since my attic is vented, its temperature will somewhat follow the temperature of the outdoor air. And where I live, it can get pretty darn cold.

By using the Monthly Summarized Data report from NOAA, I found that within the past 20+ years my area has been as cold as -25 °C. That's very cold, but I think my attic temperatures will always be warmer than that for several reasons.

  • I suspect that attic temperatures will always be a bit warmer than the outside air, as there will always be some heat leakage up into the attic from the living space below. 
  • The minimal temperature of -25 °C is the lowest temperature on record.  It could have been that cold for just a few minutes.  My attic may be a little more more moderate, as the heat of my attic wouldn't leak out instantly.
  • Given recent global warming predictions, my area is getting quite a bit warmer in the winter.  It is still possible for some crazy cold temperatures, but it is generally less likely.  The odds of  "-25 °C" might have happened once every 20 years.  Now the odds might be once every 100 years.

For the sake of being conservative, I'll put a stake in the ground and say that my worst case attic cold temperature will be -25 °C, although I imagine that -15 °C might be closer to a realistic minimum.

The Hot Attic may be extreme

Again, according to NOAA, the outside summer air in my region has been as warm as +40 °C.   That's pretty crazy.  But my house is covered with shingles and gets a lot of direct sunlight, so it will be even crazier. I guess that potential of the sun beating down on the roof on a sunny day, could induce the attic to get as warm as perhaps +50 °C. Hopefully when the weather is so hot, it will also be hazy, reducing some of the solar radiation heating the roof.  Stronger outdoor winds could help push some of the hot air out through the venting system.

All things considered, I will again use my conservative hat and use +50 °C as the highest temperature I'll see inside the attic.

Measurement

All my temperature scenarios are just estimates based on historic weather data. So what will it really be like up there? 

Onvis Temperature Sensor

 

I have placed a Homekit-based Onvis temperature sensor in my attic. The Onvis allows me to monitor and record temperature over time. So far, the attic temperature has peaked at 47 °C, on calm and sunny early summer  day where outdoor temperatures peaked at 36 °C. Therefore, when the weather is right, the attic has been +11 °C above outdoor temperatures. I'll be watching temperatures closely as we go through summer.

Gear Selection based on Operating Environment

The vast majority of higher-end gear is designed to operate somewhere between 0 °C and 40 °C, but I  expect to regularly see temperatures ranging from -15 °C and 50 °C, with a worst-case range of -25 °C to +55 °C.  Most equipment will fail in short order with those crazy temperatures.

Therefore I have chosen the MikroTik hAP AC lite router, which can operate between -30 °C and +70 °C. The odds of the temperature of my attic being outside of that range is vanishingly small.  It is important to note that the router will be "on" 24x365, so there will always be some heat generated inside the unit.  Therefore, I think the most significant challenge will be the high temperatures of summer.

I have the MikroTik attached to an active PoE switch, so I will be using it with an active PoE splitter.  The splitter's [poorly noted and perhaps untrustworthy] specs suggest an operational range between -30 °C to +80 °C.

Note that the previously mentioned Onvis sensor will be operating in an environment that is outside of its specifications (-10°C to +45 °C), so I might end up changing my temperature monitoring strategy.  In the least, may end up using lithium batteries within the Onvis because Lithium batteries can better deal with  temperature extremes (often -40 °C to +60 °C) compared with alkaline batteries (-18°C to 55°C) .

The Specifications and the Data

I'll periodically update the following data. 

Recorded Temperature Extremes (so far)

Max Attic Temperature (Sensor): +47 °C
 Outdoor Temperature..........: +36 °C (Δ: +11 °C)

Min Attic Temperature (Sensor): +06 °C
 Outdoor Temperature..........: +05 °C (Δ: +1 °C)

Equipment  Specifications

Equipment at high risk of operating outside of specification is in bold.
Equipment operated outside of temperature specifications are in red.
 
Expected Extremes...: -25 °C to +50 °C 
Current Extremes....: +06 °C to +47 °C

MikroTik hAP AC lite: -30 °C to +70 °C
Active PoE Splitter.: -30 °C to +80 °C
ONVIS Sensor........: -10 °C to +45 °C
Alkaline batteries..: -18 °C to +55 °C
Lithium batteries...: -40 °C to +60 °C (not yet in use)
 

"Can you show temperatures in Freedom Units?"

Specifications for engineered equipment is generally presented in degrees Celsius.  It's just easier to stick with the industry norm instead of converting back and forth.  If you don't understand Celsius, Google can translate it for you.

Just as a simple recap, from the human livability perspective:

  • ☀️ 45 °C is super hot
  • ☀️ 35 °C is very hot
  • ☀️ 30 °C is hot  (turn on the A/C)
  • ✓  25 °C is warm
  • ✓  20 °C is comfortable
  • ❅  15 °C is cool (turn on the heat)
  • ❅  10 °C is cold
  • ❅   0 °C is freezing

 Adjust for your regional tastes.

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a...

Macintosh: Upgrading an eMac

It's been a long time since I wrote this article, but the fact remains: The good old eMac can still be useful if you take the simple steps to keep it as good as it can be.  All can run Tiger, and most can run Leopard - great operating systems for their day with a bit of useful life.  This article describes the procedure I used to upgrade my old eMac, including: Replacing the internal hard disk with a large capacity drive. Increasing the memory for performance Upgrading the operating system Here I'm upgrading a 700 MHz eMac, but the procedure and tasks for upgrading other eMac models should be almost identical. Upgrading versus Replacing My sister's eMac is of the 700 mhz variety, with 256 MB of memory. The machine seemed to be getting "slower", and the original 40 GB disk was becoming jammed packed with photos and iTunes, and within a few months she'd be out of disk space. There were two options to address the problems: upgrade the eMac, or go o...

Porsche Key Remote Battery Repair Video How-To

We now live in the age where part of your life is spending time and money maintaining and repairing things like your car keys . My Porsche's remote key was getting weaker and weaker, until one day it stopped operating altogether. Keyless remote without the remoteness. Not so good. I was a bit fearful spending a sizable chunk of my time and money at the dealership to have such a small problem addressed, and so I decided that I would try to replace the battery myself. Items required A clear work surface A small flat blade screw driver. A quality lithium CR-2032 Battery, available here. Procedure The following video shows how I successfully opened up the key without breaking it, and replaced the alarm remote battery. In short, from the vantage point of the key's steel part facing away and the buttons facing up: I take a small screwdriver and press on the little plastic tab on the left side.  At the same time I use my fingers to start to pull the two halves apart.  From th...

Trendnet TEW-652BRP and DD-WRT Success!

I recently visited my dad while on a business trip when I coincidentally discovered that DD-WRT is now available for his TEW-652. The TEW-652BRP has been a great router for my father, but it isn't what I'd call "feature rich". An upgrade to DD-WRT is a big bonus. I live 2500 miles away from my non-technical father, and so a well-specified router that helps me manage his network remotely is important to both of us. This article will explain what I did to finally get DD-WRT working on my TEW-652BRP v1.0R. About the TEW-652brp It's a nice looking little black 802.11n, 2.5 GHz router. It was amazingly inexpensive (usually way under $30), and  the TEW-652brp is available through Amazon. Mine is a version 1.0R, you'll likely want the same version. Out of the box, it works quite well - it has been stable, and I was fairly happy with the stock firmware. But it was short on features - I like having VPN, SSH, and flexible DHCP services on the home netwo...

Excellent DD-WRT Router for Me: Netgear WNDR3400 / N600

My WiFi performance was suffering, and so I decided to do something about it and upgrade my router. When I say my WiFi performance was suffering, I really mean it:  I live in a large high-rise apartment building and there are 100+ WiFi access points visible from my home office.  All of the contentious traffic was severely curtailing my WiFi reliability.  I was lucky to get 1 Mbit/second throughput.  Sometimes I was lucky to stay connected even with my WiFi router in the same room. I decided it was time to go for 5 GHz, which is a WiFi band which is used less frequently and which has a tougher time traversing walls.  And of course I wanted DD-WRT support.  The set of features I was looking for included: Trouble-free DD-WRT support 5 GHz 802.11n Support Simultaneous dual band capability Inexpensive.  Maybe even cheap.  For me this means under $50.  Under $35 is even better! It sounds like an easy task to bring all this together: A...

Other Posts

Show more