Skip to main content

Hot (and Cold) Attic Tempertures and Electronic Equipment

An unfinished attic can be an extreme environment for electronic equipment, with conditions that are very unlike what is experienced inside normal living spaces. What's the deal with installing electronic equipment in an unfinished and uninsulated attic?

Attic Space
 

I wanted to install a standard WiFi router in my attic to function as a Wireless ISP (WISP) gateway. My attic is a fantastic location from a radio signal perspective, but it is an uncomfortable place for both people and electronic gear. Although the attic is well insulated, that insulation is on the floor, designed to keep the living space of my home at moderate temperatures. As a WISP gateway, my WiFi router is best mounted above the insulation and close to the roof, where the only protection from weather extremes is the wood of the roof and a layer of asphalt shingles.

Equipment Specifications and Extremes

Almost all electronic equipment has a set of specifications regarding operating environment. These specifications state the conditions required for reliable operation. These specs are ignored by most people, because most equipment is designed to work alongside people. But if you're installing equipment in an unfinished attic, crawl space, shed, or garage, these specifications may become critical.

Why can't all electronic equipment withstand a huge range of conditions? Generally it is due to cost. Some electronic components may misbehave when temperatures fall below or rise above a specific threshold. For example, a display panel, battery, or capacitor that contains some liquid can behave very differently if that liquid freezes, or if that liquid turns to vapor. Similarly, very high humidity can alter circuit resistance. The impact of the environment on electronic gear can be significant.  Conditions outside of the norm of  needs some thought.

The Attic Environment

So what are the details of the environment in my attic, and is it compatible with my equipment?

Attic Protection

The attic, being a hat for a home, is designed to keep rain and snow and pests out. My home has asphalt shingles that do a great job of weather protection. I do not expect to see any rain or snow inside the attic area at all, ever. It should be dry 365 days a year.

My attic has some passive air vents. There is a ridge vent along the top of the roof line, and there are larger air vents located at the gables. These vents should help keep attic temperatures somewhat similar to outdoor temperatures, but more on that later.

All the vents are screened, and there are no (known) holes in the attic, so I do not expect any rodents, birds, or insects in there. Nobody needs those pests, and that includes electronic equipment. That said, some insects may find their way inside, so there is a bit of a risk that insects may crawl into equipment to find warmth.

Attic Potential for Cold

Since my attic is vented, its temperature will somewhat follow the temperature of the outdoor air. And where I live, it can get pretty darn cold.

By using the Monthly Summarized Data report from NOAA, I found that within the past 20+ years my area has been as cold as -25 °C. That's very cold, but I think my attic temperatures will always be warmer than that for several reasons.

  • I suspect that attic temperatures will always be a bit warmer than the outside air, as there will always be some heat leakage up into the attic from the living space below. 
  • The minimal temperature of -25 °C is the lowest temperature on record.  It could have been that cold for just a few minutes.  My attic may be a little more more moderate, as the heat of my attic wouldn't leak out instantly.
  • Given recent global warming predictions, my area is getting quite a bit warmer in the winter.  It is still possible for some crazy cold temperatures, but it is generally less likely.  The odds of  "-25 °C" might have happened once every 20 years.  Now the odds might be once every 100 years.

For the sake of being conservative, I'll put a stake in the ground and say that my worst case attic cold temperature will be -25 °C, although I imagine that -15 °C might be closer to a realistic minimum.

The Hot Attic may be extreme

Again, according to NOAA, the outside summer air in my region has been as warm as +40 °C.   That's pretty crazy.  But my house is covered with shingles and gets a lot of direct sunlight, so it will be even crazier. I guess that potential of the sun beating down on the roof on a sunny day, could induce the attic to get as warm as perhaps +50 °C. Hopefully when the weather is so hot, it will also be hazy, reducing some of the solar radiation heating the roof.  Stronger outdoor winds could help push some of the hot air out through the venting system.

All things considered, I will again use my conservative hat and use +50 °C as the highest temperature I'll see inside the attic.

Measurement

All my temperature scenarios are just estimates based on historic weather data. So what will it really be like up there? 

Onvis Temperature Sensor

 

I have placed a Homekit-based Onvis temperature sensor in my attic. The Onvis allows me to monitor and record temperature over time. So far, the attic temperature has peaked at 47 °C, on calm and sunny early summer  day where outdoor temperatures peaked at 36 °C. Therefore, when the weather is right, the attic has been +11 °C above outdoor temperatures. I'll be watching temperatures closely as we go through summer.

Gear Selection based on Operating Environment

The vast majority of higher-end gear is designed to operate somewhere between 0 °C and 40 °C, but I  expect to regularly see temperatures ranging from -15 °C and 50 °C, with a worst-case range of -25 °C to +55 °C.  Most equipment will fail in short order with those crazy temperatures.

Therefore I have chosen the MikroTik hAP AC lite router, which can operate between -30 °C and +70 °C. The odds of the temperature of my attic being outside of that range is vanishingly small.  It is important to note that the router will be "on" 24x365, so there will always be some heat generated inside the unit.  Therefore, I think the most significant challenge will be the high temperatures of summer.

I have the MikroTik attached to an active PoE switch, so I will be using it with an active PoE splitter.  The splitter's [poorly noted and perhaps untrustworthy] specs suggest an operational range between -30 °C to +80 °C.

Note that the previously mentioned Onvis sensor will be operating in an environment that is outside of its specifications (-10°C to +45 °C), so I might end up changing my temperature monitoring strategy.  In the least, may end up using lithium batteries within the Onvis because Lithium batteries can better deal with  temperature extremes (often -40 °C to +60 °C) compared with alkaline batteries (-18°C to 55°C) .

The Specifications and the Data

I'll periodically update the following data. 

Recorded Temperature Extremes (so far)

Max Attic Temperature (Sensor): +47 °C
 Outdoor Temperature..........: +36 °C (Δ: +11 °C)

Min Attic Temperature (Sensor): +06 °C
 Outdoor Temperature..........: +05 °C (Δ: +1 °C)

Equipment  Specifications

Equipment at high risk of operating outside of specification is in bold.
Equipment operated outside of temperature specifications are in red.
 
Expected Extremes...: -25 °C to +50 °C 
Current Extremes....: +06 °C to +47 °C

MikroTik hAP AC lite: -30 °C to +70 °C
Active PoE Splitter.: -30 °C to +80 °C
ONVIS Sensor........: -10 °C to +45 °C
Alkaline batteries..: -18 °C to +55 °C
Lithium batteries...: -40 °C to +60 °C (not yet in use)
 

"Can you show temperatures in Freedom Units?"

Specifications for engineered equipment is generally presented in degrees Celsius.  It's just easier to stick with the industry norm instead of converting back and forth.  If you don't understand Celsius, Google can translate it for you.

Just as a simple recap, from the human livability perspective:

  • ☀️ 45 °C is super hot
  • ☀️ 35 °C is very hot
  • ☀️ 30 °C is hot  (turn on the A/C)
  • ✓  25 °C is warm
  • ✓  20 °C is comfortable
  • ❅  15 °C is cool (turn on the heat)
  • ❅  10 °C is cold
  • ❅   0 °C is freezing

 Adjust for your regional tastes.

Popular posts from this blog

My iPhone is being remotely controlled by a hacker! (and how to fix it)

Who is remotely controlling my iPhone??? This is a personal story that scared the hell out of me. On Monday I was awoken by my iPhone alarm telling me that it was time to get up to go to work.   I picked up the phone and looked at the day's calendar.  Ug.  I put it back down in its dock for a couple more Z's. Seconds later, I heard it clicking. I looked at my phone, and it looked like someone was typing on it!  Click.  Then a swipe.  And then more clicks.  One of my business apps was being operated, but NO ONE was touching my iPhone!  I was sure that a Hacker was remotely operating my iPhone, digging around for my private data! This was shocking.  My phone stores a lot of good stuff - my email, photos, finances, passwords and all sorts of other goodies.  If someone compromised my phone they could know  where  I am.  They could operate the cameras, the microphones - in short, they could know almost  everyth...

Repairing a MagSafe Charger's Cord

Here is how to repair the cord of Apple MacSafe power adapters. There are three common failure modes of a magsafe wire: The base of the cord becomes frayed where the wire enters the power brick.  This is usually caused by repeatedly wrapping the cord far too tightly around the brick's "ears". The head of the magsafe connector becomes frayed.  This is usually caused by repeatedly removing the magsafe magnet by yanking on the cord. Chewed up cord.  This is where a pet or other pinching device weakens the cord. These types of failure are usually repairable at home using the technique described here. Tools Required: A beginner's Soldering kit, like this one, including a low-wattage soldering iron, rosin-core Solder, and wire strippers. Heat shrink tubing .   Any color works, but these days I use white to repair a MagSafe cord. One Soldering Sleeve, appropriate for 22 or 24 AWG wire Heat gun (optional.) Process:   The general process is t...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Installing the Eve Smart MotionBlind Upgrade with my Large Roller Shade

I have a large window in the front of my house and a roller shade was just the right window treatment for it.  But I also wanted to automate it. My MotionBlind Upgrade kit and my new roller shade I looked around to buy something that I was comfortable with, but simple non-automated roller blinds can be expensive, especially when they're larger than 6 ft x 6 ft.   This is disappointing, as a roller blind is just a tube with a small amount of synthetic cloth but can easily cost hundreds of dollars. Plus, since I wanted a smarthome blind, we're talking $500 or more from the "service oriented shops". I'm a tech guy.  I think can do better. After thinking about DIY and creative solutions, I decided to try out the Eve MotionBlinds Upgrade (MBU) kit.  This kit transforms an ordinary roller blind into a smart blind.  The MotionBlinds mechanism is basically consists of a small motor and battery in a long metal tube.  This motor tube slides into a roller blind ...

Robust Installation of an HDHomeRun Networked TV Tuner. 64 OTA channels!

I added an HDHomerun (HDHR) over-the-air (OTA) streaming box to my home network, bringing over-the-air broadcast TV to my computers, phones and tablets.  The HDHR is a big upgrade from my previous setup: using a simple "window mount" antenna directly connected to my TV. A TV-attached antenna is good for watching some TV for free, but the HDHR offers so much more flexibility. Figure 0: HDHomeRun on my basement wall   My original OTA TV setup was haphazard at best. It was finicky, ugly, and hard for other people at home to use. I would actually tape my antenna to a window whenever I wanted to watch OTA TV. Plus, it only worked on my TV and not with my other devices. I wanted a cleaner and more modern OTA setup. After looking at possibilities, I developed two goals: (1) bring my OTA TV into the modern Internet-connected era, and (2) set it up in a reliable and pretty way so that other family members wouldn't have to fool around with the antenna or anything else.  With that,...

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...

Other Posts

Show more