Skip to main content

Modernizing old house network wiring - Part 13 - Finishing the backboard

The backboard is the center of my home network, where all my home's data cables all my key network equipment come together. A sensibly-organized and managed backboard makes a network far easier to manage and maintain, and gives me room to grow.  Here is how I developed my backboard strategy, and the specifics of how I made it happen.

Backboard Background

Designing a Backboard

Many people dream about using an equipment rack for their network gear, but even a small rack is expensive and inflexible.  So instead of "upgrading" to a rack, my home is now equipped with a completely redesigned network backboard.

A backboard is a sheet of plywood where data cables and key network gear come together.  In my case, I wanted all the Ethernet cables to go into an Ethernet switch.  Then I wanted to mount my primary router and modem and other useful gear at the same location.  Similarly, all the cable TV cables would be distributed from this point.

The building's original backboard was an insect-chewed 8 inch x 16 inch pine board with an indecipherable ball of wiring.  There was no room for a router, a modem, or anything else.  There were dozens of mystery cables.  It was a hopeless case, and a new backboard was the only solution.

The New Backboard 

I removed the old backboard and dealt with the building's wiring. Now all of the building's cables come in from the ceiling above the backboard.   In my case, that includes the CATV, Ethernet, Doorbell power, and some currently idle feeds to the Alarm panel.  Then I installed a new, larger board made of plywood.  Sadly my board is still relatively small (roughly 20 inches wide by 36 inches tall), but it is large enough for everything I need.  

Power comes in at the bottom of the board from a nearby 15 amp outlet.

I mounted the 10-port PoE Ethernet switch on the top right of the board, as that's where the Ethernet cables pop out of the ceiling. This switch services all the lower level rooms and the feed to the attic.  This switch is also used to feed other devices on the backboard.  All 10 ports are now in use, so I'll need to change something if I want to add a new device. 

PoE Ethernet Switch
PoE Ethernet Switch

I put the CATV splitter, a PPC EVO 1/9, at the top left. I chose this location because it is adjacent to where the cables pop out of the ceiling.  The CATV is no longer in use within the building, but I needed a way to manage all the cables just in case they find a future use.  This splitter is my solution for cable management. The splitter is designed to be powered, but since all the RG6 cabling is inactive, I have removed the power adapter

 

PPC EVO1-9-U/U Cable TV Splitter
PPC EVO1-9-U/U Cable TV Splitter

 

HDHomeRun Digital Internet TV Tuner

Mounted HDHomeRun TV Tuner
Wall Mounted HDHomeRun TV Tuner

 

I have an HD Homerun HDTV tuner, the "Connect Duo" version, mounted on the backboard using a zip tie. The Homerun allows me to watch local over-the-air TV on any device in my home.  It is plugged directly into the adjacent Ethernet switch.  A CeKay antenna has been put in the attic, and a previously unused attic RG6 coax feed has been repurposed as the antenna cable for the HDHR.

I thought about locating the HDHR in the attic near the TV antenna, but attic temperatures will sometimes fall outside of its acceptable operational range, which is documented as 0°C to +40°C

Alarm Keypad

There is an alarm system keypad mounted on the backboard.  I haven't bothered to connect it and will remove it at a later date.

Apple TV HD

I have an Apple TV HD  mounted to the backboard which operates as a HomeKit hub.  It is mounted using a zip tie, and plugs directly into the Ethernet switch. There is no display attached.  I might relocate the Apple TV device to my living room, but on the other hand it may be wise to keep it on the backboard for future UPS power.

Wall Mounted Apple TV and Ring Transformer
Wall Mounted Apple TV and Ring Transformer

Ring Doorbell Transformer

My Ring wired doorbell system is powered by a Honeywell AC transformer. The transformer is attached to the backboard using a zip tie and a pigtail-style extension cord.

The doorbell system was previously powered by a box mounted transformer, but the powering the Ring-based system from this backboard-mounted transformer will allow me to easily provide UPS backup power.

AC Power distribution

Everything on the board is powered by a commodity wall mounted power strip. According to my Killowatt Power meter, the typical power use of each component is as follows:

  • PoE Switch: 3.6 Watts
    • PoE WiFi AP: 5.3 Watts
    • PoE Attic WISP gateway router:3.9 Watts
  • Ring Doorbell Transformer: 4.0 Watts
  • HDHomeRun: 2.1 Watts
  • Apple TV HD, as a HomeKit hub: 1.1 Watts

The remote PoE devices powered by the switch include the attic-mounted MikroTik hAP AC Lite (operating as a WISP gateway and as the primary network router), and a living room mounted MikroTik Cap AC access point, providing 802.11 WiFi to the building.

In total, that's about 21 watts with a PF of about 0.60.

I plan to add backup power using a CyberPower UPS.  This UPS will allow the network and key devices like the Ring doorbell to function in the event of a power failure.  I should be able to power my backboard for several hours using this UPS unit.

Since the UPS is designed to sit on a desk or on the floor, I'll have to make a bracket so it can sit on the backboard. 

CyberPower UPS waiting for installation

Equipment Removed from the Backboard

I had a few other things on the backboard that have since been removed:

GL.iNet Mango router and Arris SB6190 Cable modem.  I used these together, as my Internet gateway and router.  Since eliminating CATV-based Internet service and transitioning to my WISP, these devices were replaced by my attic-mounted MikroTik hAP.

Raspberry Pi Zero.  I had a Raspberry Pi Zero mounted to the board, operating as my always-available general purpose server. I relocated the Pi to an area where its hardware I/O can directly monitor some building equipment.

Future Plans

Adding the UPS is the only likely short-term addition.


Labels:

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release the right
Read more

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou
Read more

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu
Read more

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a simple circuit boar
Read more

Performace and reliability testing of a G.hn Coax to Ethernet Adapter pair

I happened upon a set of Coax to Ethernet adapters and I decided to do an analysis of them. The adapters I found, by Commscope, use the G.hn protocol.  This protocol is used for many media types, with the general idea that existing or legacy cabling can be repurposed for modern home networking. I have some existing idle Coax in the walls and ceiling of my house, so I decided to try these adapters with this legacy copper.  Testing The home coax run I decided to try is a bit more than 10 meters long. I set up two PC clients on my network, with one PC being attached to one of these adapters, which was then attached to the 10 meter long cable. At the far end I attached the other adapter, which was then attached to my primary Ethernet switch.   The coax cable was in three distinct segments, 1 meter + 10 meters + 0.5 meters, all joined together with F-style couplers.   Network tested via iPerf   Results I successfully ran four trials of iPerf3 between my two PCs, each running 5 simultaneous
Read more

Installing a CarPlay radio in a Honda CRV

I ended up buying a 2013 Honda CRV and decided to replace the stock radio/CD player with an upgraded unit.  This was far easier and cheaper than I imagined, but the hardest part was selecting a unit to buy  This article covers how I made my choice.   The basic form factor for my CRV head unit Selecting a Unit The Car I have a 2013 CR/V, which is the same series of all of the CR/Vs from model year 2012 through 2016. Therefore it was important to find a radio unit that fits this model. The CRV has steering wheel radio controls, and I wanted to use them.  This uses a technology called CAN-Bus, which is kind of like USB for cars.  Therefore, a CAN-Bus capability would be able to leverage all these steering wheel features.  In addition, the CRV has a backup camera that would be nice to tie into. And of course I wanted to leverage the existing speakers and USB port. Form Factor I wanted a unit that had a big display, and I wanted a unit that was easy to purchase and install.  Therefore, I
Read more

Other Posts

Show more