Skip to main content

Modernizing old house network wiring - Part 13 - Finishing the backboard

The backboard is the center of my home network, where all my home's data cables all my key network equipment come together. A sensibly-organized and managed backboard makes a network far easier to manage and maintain, and gives me room to grow.  Here is how I developed my backboard strategy, and the specifics of how I made it happen.

Backboard Background

Designing a Backboard

Many people dream about using an equipment rack for their network gear, but even a small rack is expensive and inflexible.  So instead of "upgrading" to a rack, my home is now equipped with a completely redesigned network backboard.

A backboard is a sheet of plywood where data cables and key network gear come together.  In my case, I wanted all the Ethernet cables to go into an Ethernet switch.  Then I wanted to mount my primary router and modem and other useful gear at the same location.  Similarly, all the cable TV cables would be distributed from this point.

The building's original backboard was an insect-chewed 8 inch x 16 inch pine board with an indecipherable ball of wiring.  There was no room for a router, a modem, or anything else.  There were dozens of mystery cables.  It was a hopeless case, and a new backboard was the only solution.

The New Backboard 

I removed the old backboard and dealt with the building's wiring. Now all of the building's cables come in from the ceiling above the backboard.   In my case, that includes the CATV, Ethernet, Doorbell power, and some currently idle feeds to the Alarm panel.  Then I installed a new, larger board made of plywood.  Sadly my board is still relatively small (roughly 20 inches wide by 36 inches tall), but it is large enough for everything I need.  

Power comes in at the bottom of the board from a nearby 15 amp outlet.

I mounted the 10-port PoE Ethernet switch on the top right of the board, as that's where the Ethernet cables pop out of the ceiling. This switch services all the lower level rooms and the feed to the attic.  This switch is also used to feed other devices on the backboard.  All 10 ports are now in use, so I'll need to change something if I want to add a new device. 

PoE Ethernet Switch
PoE Ethernet Switch

I put the CATV splitter, a PPC EVO 1/9, at the top left. I chose this location because it is adjacent to where the cables pop out of the ceiling.  The CATV is no longer in use within the building, but I needed a way to manage all the cables just in case they find a future use.  This splitter is my solution for cable management. The splitter is designed to be powered, but since all the RG6 cabling is inactive, I have removed the power adapter

 

PPC EVO1-9-U/U Cable TV Splitter
PPC EVO1-9-U/U Cable TV Splitter

 

HDHomeRun Digital Internet TV Tuner

Mounted HDHomeRun TV Tuner
Wall Mounted HDHomeRun TV Tuner

 

I have an HD Homerun HDTV tuner, the "Connect Duo" version, mounted on the backboard using a zip tie. The Homerun allows me to watch local over-the-air TV on any device in my home.  It is plugged directly into the adjacent Ethernet switch.  A CeKay antenna has been put in the attic, and a previously unused attic RG6 coax feed has been repurposed as the antenna cable for the HDHR.

I thought about locating the HDHR in the attic near the TV antenna, but attic temperatures will sometimes fall outside of its acceptable operational range, which is documented as 0°C to +40°C

Alarm Keypad

There is an alarm system keypad mounted on the backboard.  I haven't bothered to connect it and will remove it at a later date.

Apple TV HD

I have an Apple TV HD  mounted to the backboard which operates as a HomeKit hub.  It is mounted using a zip tie, and plugs directly into the Ethernet switch. There is no display attached.  I might relocate the Apple TV device to my living room, but on the other hand it may be wise to keep it on the backboard for future UPS power.

Wall Mounted Apple TV and Ring Transformer
Wall Mounted Apple TV and Ring Transformer

Ring Doorbell Transformer

My Ring wired doorbell system is powered by a Honeywell AC transformer. The transformer is attached to the backboard using a zip tie and a pigtail-style extension cord.

The doorbell system was previously powered by a box mounted transformer, but the powering the Ring-based system from this backboard-mounted transformer will allow me to easily provide UPS backup power.

AC Power distribution

Everything on the board is powered by a commodity wall mounted power strip. According to my Killowatt Power meter, the typical power use of each component is as follows:

  • PoE Switch: 3.6 Watts
    • PoE WiFi AP: 5.3 Watts
    • PoE Attic WISP gateway router:3.9 Watts
  • Ring Doorbell Transformer: 4.0 Watts
  • HDHomeRun: 2.1 Watts
  • Apple TV HD, as a HomeKit hub: 1.1 Watts

The remote PoE devices powered by the switch include the attic-mounted MikroTik hAP AC Lite (operating as a WISP gateway and as the primary network router), and a living room mounted MikroTik Cap AC access point, providing 802.11 WiFi to the building.

In total, that's about 21 watts with a PF of about 0.60.

I plan to add backup power using a CyberPower UPS.  This UPS will allow the network and key devices like the Ring doorbell to function in the event of a power failure.  I should be able to power my backboard for several hours using this UPS unit.

Since the UPS is designed to sit on a desk or on the floor, I'll have to make a bracket so it can sit on the backboard. 

CyberPower UPS waiting for installation

Equipment Removed from the Backboard

I had a few other things on the backboard that have since been removed:

GL.iNet Mango router and Arris SB6190 Cable modem.  I used these together, as my Internet gateway and router.  Since eliminating CATV-based Internet service and transitioning to my WISP, these devices were replaced by my attic-mounted MikroTik hAP.

Raspberry Pi Zero.  I had a Raspberry Pi Zero mounted to the board, operating as my always-available general purpose server. I relocated the Pi to an area where its hardware I/O can directly monitor some building equipment.

Future Plans

Adding the UPS is the only likely short-term addition.


Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

E-waste portfolio grows, thanks to the losers managing Ring.

 I just installed a Ring doorbell the other day, and in perusing the website I read this gem: "security updates until at least four years after the device is last available for purchase"  Four years is all Ring promises for a brand new device?  This isn't 2007.  It's a mass market doorbell and a camera, something expected to be safely used for years, if not decades.  Even my home router has a longer promised life, and that's saying something. Ring management must be embarrassed by their ineptness.  They're idiots, and clearly the only way they know how to make a buck is not through great ideas and great implementations, but through planned obsolescence and customer abuse.  

Apple TV HD - The Best Streaming box ever

I purchased my Apple TV on its release day, in October 2015.  It continues to serve me perfectly, after nearly 10 years of active use. Although it is decidedly not the newest model of Apple TV, it does 100% of the things I want it to do without any issues.  Sure, I'd love a more modern SoC, gigabit Ethernet, Thread support, 4k video support, etc, but honestly I am not missing any of those features, so "upgrading" it today would be a waste of money.  I did sell the original Siri remote in 2023 and upgrade to the 3rd generation (USB-C) Siri remote. The original Siri remote was working great, but I figured after 7.5 years of use, it was time to get a new remote with a new battery.  I will likely upgrade my Apple TV in the future, but I can't predict when that will be.   Due to a quirk of its release strategy, this Apple TV was discontinued in late 2022, and so it is likely to be supported for several more years. A new device would have to be a leap ahead, because m...

Canon SD890 Review

My Canon PowerShot SD890IS Review Wahoo! I just received my new Canon PowerShot SD890IS . Here's my review of the new SD890IS. Updated! (20-April-2008)! I like taking good photos. And I hate lugging around big cameras and equipment. And so I concluded that I needed to buy myself an awesome point-n-shoot camera. I often take pictures in difficult conditions, such as a museum where a flash camera is prohibited. Or a concert, where I can't use a flash, the lighting is low, and the people on stage are in motion. Or with the zoom cranked up and focused on a distant subject. Taking good photos in these conditions, with a small lens camera and without a tripod is a challenge at best. In comes the SD890. I was particularly excited about the SD890 because it is pocketable, yet it has awesome specifications: Image stabilization ; a 5x zoom lens, and 10 megapixel resolution. When I bought the camera, I imagined that these features would help me take much better pictures in the...

Repairing a Crate TX15 Taxi amplifier battery

A friend gave me a Crate battery guitar amp that he used for busking. It is a nice 15 watt amp with an internal battery. Sadly it died, and its custom power adapter was misplaced. After several years the battery will fail, and it requires a functioning battery to work at all. Happily, new batteries are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to install. Obtaining a replacement battery for the TX15 The original battery was a 4+ pound, sealed lead battery. Any replacement battery should closely follow the specs of the original. I bought this MightyMax Battery on Amazon , which is a perfect replacement. There are many batteries that conform to the needs of the TX15, and they can be found at local hardware stores as they are commonly used in lots of equipment. It pays to look locally if you need something faster than Amazon.  The battery specs are as follows: 12 Volt, 7.2 Ah lead battery (mine was marked 1272). Length: 5.94" (151 mm)  Width: 2.56" (65 mm) Height: 3.94" (100...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...

Other Posts

Show more