Thursday, April 24, 2008

Clean and Repair your Mac keyboard: How-To Guide

Today I'll show you how I go about to repair and clean Mac keyboards. This procedure is particular to the Apple white USB and Bluetooth keyboards, but a similar procedure should work on most other standard PC keyboards.

My yukky keyboard being dismantled

Keyboards are generally highly reliable devices, but they do have the nasty habit of collecting gunk that can make keys stick, or worse, completely non-functional. This guide shows you how to fully clean your keyboard so that it can be as good as it can be.

My recently cleaned Apple Keyboard - like new again!

Remember, keyboards aren't super-expensive, so if you think your keyboard is beyond hope, buy a new one and give your crusty console to someone who is willing to clean it up and give it a new life!

What you will need:
  1. A clean, uncluttered work surface
  2. A one quart or one liter-sized plastic or glass container with a lid.
  3. A ball point pen, for levering off keys
  4. A small towel, for air-drying keys
  5. A strainer, such as one used for draining cooked pasta.
  6. Some dish washer detergent. A spoonful will do.
  7. An old toothbrush
  8. An old kitchen sponge
  9. Warm tap water
  10. Silicone grease

Getting Started


The first thing you want to do is find yourself a nice work surface. Make sure that you don't have any junk around - these keyboards have over 100 hundred parts, and you don't want to lose any.

Take a photograph of your keyboard. You'll want this picture so that you can easily restore the keys to their original location. Without a picture, you'll do a lot of guessing.


Removing the Small Keys

We're going to remove all the keys from the keyboard. This is easier than it sounds - the trick is to start with all the small keys. But for sanity's sake, we'll pop off each small key with a little upward pressure. Don't take off the larger keys, such as Shift, Delete, or the Space Bar! Stick with the smaller square shaped keys. Apply upward pressure to the left or right side of the key and lever it up gently. Don't apply too much pressure or else you'll break the key's stem. I usually start from the right side, as it is easier to get some purchase from that side. If you have trouble popping off the keys with your fingers, use a pen to help pop off the key.


Levering up a key.

As you remove keys, put them into your container.


Pulling off the tricky big keys

Once all the small keys are off, we're going to go after the bigger ones. Many of the large key have a metal bar underneath them. This bar keeps the large key's top surface parallel with the rest of the keyboard. Without the metal support bars, the keys would rock around, resulting in a lousy feel.

Pulling off a large key requires special care. Lever up the key gently from the center-rear of the key. Once the key is released, make sure that the support wire is released from the base of the keyboard. The goal is to remove the key with its support wire. Keep the support wire attached to the key. Do not bend the wire or break the hooks found on the base of the keyboard. Again, put all the large keys with their support wires into your container. Be particularly careful with the space bar.

Repeat this process until all of the keys are removed.

The Delete Key with support wire - a source of keyboard squeaks


The Keys


Cleaning the Keyboard Base

Next we're going to clean the keyboard base. Take a vacuum cleaner with an upholstery attachment and vacuum up all of the dirt, hair, food, and whatever else it there. Use an old tooth brush to knock off any really sticky stuff. Then use a damp (not wet!) kitchen sponge to clean off the rest of the crud on the base. Then set the keyboard base aside.

The yukky keyboard base... ready for cleaning.


My cleaned keyboard base.

Phew! That looks a lot better! Not perfect, but good enough for me!


Proper Washing of the Keys

Now it's time to clean the keys. Put a spoonful of dishwasher detergent into your plastic container and add plenty of warm water. Seal the container and shake as if you were on an entire episode of Soul Train Dance Party.

Keys, Dishwater Detergent, and Water all in a nice sealed container.


Now your keys will be as clean as can be. Drain the container into a strainer and rinse them well with plenty of warm water.

Keys being rinsed off in a colander.


Once rinsed, inspect the keys for cleanliness. If they're still dirty, repeat the washing exercise. If not, set them aside on a towel so that they can fully air dry.
Air drying all of the keys. Make sure they're fully dry before reinstalling them!



Re-Greasing and Reassembly

Now you have a clean keyboard base and clean keys. Now we'll put it all back together again. This time, we'll install the large keys first (the ones with the metal support wires), and secondly we'll install the small square-shaped keys. Orientation is important - I hope you have that photo handy!

Stopping the Squeak of your spacebar

Sometimes you'll find that your keys squeak a bit. This is due to the movement of the metal bars against the plastic of the keys and/or keyboard base. For the large keys, you may want to re-grease the metal bars with a TINY amount of silicone grease where the plastic touches the metal. There are four points on each metal bar to grease - two where the key grabs the bar, and two where the bar slides under the hooks on the keyboard's base. Do NOT over grease your keyboard - it'll just gum up your keyboard later as it collects dirt. If in doubt, forgo the grease.

To install a large key, set the pins of the bar under the the hooks on the keyboard base, and then pivot the keys so that they hover over their receptacle. Then press down on the center of the key until the key clicks in place. Only a little pressure is required - if it seems to hard to press, STOP and make sure that everything is lined up correctly.

Once all the large keys are in place, start installing the small keys. It's easier to start from the corners, but I manage to do it haphazardly. Just get the right keys in the right holes, and make sure the keys are oriented correctly. The hardest part for me was the number pad keys versus the number-row keys, but they are quite different if you look hard enough.

In the end, you should have a solid keyboard with all keys nicely in place. Give it one more physical inspection to make sure that everything looks right and that all the keys move smoothly.

Congratulations! You've refurbished your own keyboard, saving yourself $50 or so!

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Canon SD890 Review

My Canon PowerShot SD890IS Review

Wahoo! I just received my new Canon SD890 IS. Here's my review of the new SD890IS.


Updated! (20-April-2008)!

I like taking good photos. And I hate lugging around big cameras and equipment. And so I concluded that I needed to buy myself an awesome point-n-shoot camera.

I often take pictures in difficult conditions, such as a museum where a flash camera is prohibited. Or a concert, where I can't use a flash, the lighting is low, and the people on stage are in motion. Or with the zoom cranked up and focused on a distant subject. Taking good photos in these conditions, with a small lens camera and without a tripod is a challenge at best.

In comes the SD890. I was particularly excited about the SD890 because it is pocketable, yet it has awesome specifications: Image stabilization; a 5x zoom lens, and 10 megapixel resolution. When I bought the camera, I imagined that these features would help me take much better pictures in these less-than-ideal conditions.

My SD890, just out of the box - Lookin' great.


I bought my SD890 IS from NewEgg for about $350 (in April, 2008) [I have no affiliation with NewEgg]. If you poke around the web, you may be able to find it for less - but I'm not comfortable with some of the very low cost camera retailers out there - I've heard too many horror stories from my friends. Note that the SD890 IS is known as the IXUS970 IS in Europe and perhaps other places. [I don't know how Canon ended up with two names for many of their camera products - it is confusing and annoying.]

Why I purchased this camera

I recently had the opportunity to try out various compact point & shoot digital cameras in a low-light situation. I was taking snaps for various people who were on stage, and so I had about 12 cameras at my disposal and no ability to use a flash. Most of the cameras were fairly new.

The camera that I had the best experience with was the Canon SD800 IS - which took the best photos of all the point-and-shoots, despite the demanding situation. So I went online to buy one - and I discovered that it (and its predecessors) were mostly out of stock.

One day later, Canon announced the SD890 IS. I decided to buy it based on the specifications, as it seemed like a new and improved version of the SD800 that I loved so much.


The Basics

The SD890 is a comfortable, small point and shoot. It is a little bigger than the SD400 series, but is still conformable in a shirt or jacket pocket. In particular, it is a bit thicker between the LCD and the lens - likely due to the SD890's 5x zoom lens.

The SD890 has that 5x zoom and stabilization - features that I think are now required for a great point-and-shoot.

The SD890 also has a decent-sized LCD on the back panel, along with a small optical viewfinder (that I will almost never use).

The SD890 comes with all the basic components that are included with most digital cameras:
  • A small (32 MB) SD memory card. Out of the gate, my SD890 IS reports that it can store roughly 11 photos on the stock card or 18 seconds of video. Upping the resolution will merely reduce the number of photos you can store on the stock card. You WILL want a bigger memory card. If you shop around, you'll find that 2 GB and larger SD memory cards quite inexpensive these days.
  • A lithium-ion battery pack. This battery is a bit thicker than those of other Canon Elph's that I've owned. It took about two hours to charge the battery for the first time.
  • A battery charger. Of course, it can work with a range of voltages, from 100v to 240v.
  • A USB cable. Happily, of standard design. Replacements are readily available at very low cost.
  • An A/V cable, with (mono) audio and composite video RCA connectors. It is not a standard design - it plugs into the camera's USB port. But I'm unlikely to use the video cable - composite is so old-school. So no big deal to me, it'll stay in the box.
  • Canon's Digital Camera Solutions CD-ROM disk. Man, they're up to version 33.0! I didn't install this software yet - for now, I'm using iPhoto, which works automatically with this camera.
  • A user's guide and a software guide, in various languages.
Some important included stuff: cables, battery, and a dinky SD memory card.

I wish that all camera manufacturers would include some kind of felt sleeve for their new cameras - but the Canon doesn't include one. Nor does any other manufacturer that I know of.

Computer Compatibility

If you have a somewhat modern computer (less than 7 years old or so), you should have no problems. The stock software is compatible with Windows 2000 on forward, and Mac OS X from 10.3 (Panther) and beyond.

The camera is also very usable without using Canon's stock software. iPhoto and Picasa work great with the SD890.

The biggest problem you might run into is related to the picture size.
10 Megapixels is getting up there. I was quite happy with my 5 megapixel camera - a 10 megapixel camera suggests that I'll be using up twice as much disk storage with photos.

Out of the box, the SD890 is set on "Fine" mode, resulting in photos that are typically 2.5 MB in size. Of course, I prefer Superfine mode, which improves a photo's quality at the expense of disk size. In general, it seems like the Superfine mode results in photo that are, on average, 7 MB big.

If you have an older computer, you might want to either manage you photo collection a bit better, or get a larger hard disk. Very high capacity external drives are available for roughly $100. (And don't forget to back up your photo collection!)

Taking pictures

... but how does it do in practice? That's a great question. I have only taken a couple pictures so far, but I've been surprised by the quality of those pictures - they feel great. But I still need to do some side-by-side comparisons before I come to any firm conclusions. I will be updating this page frequently as I experiment with this new camera. Feel free to use the "comment" option (below) if you have any specific questions for me.

It can't sit down straight with the lens fully extended.


Next Steps
Now I'm off to a photo-taking session - I'll report back here in the next day or two to update you with how well the SD890 performs!


Update, 2-April-2008!

So far it's pretty awesome! I've gave the SD890 a 2GB SD card, and put the camera in "super-fine" mode. Resulting photos are roughtly 3-to-6 MB big, meaning that I can get about 454 photos per 2 GB card (that is according to the camera.)

I took some indoor shots (without flash). The camera did particularly well in these conditions. Although it told me that there was a call for the flash, I found that I could take great pictures with only a steady hand. Undoubtably the stabilization helped out. Of all the indoor shots I took, only one was truly bad... and that was because my subject was goofing around - certainly something that the camera cannot compensate around.

I also took some outdoor shots. Again, the camera performed well. I was in bright sun, but my subjects were in motion and I was using the 5x zoom - not always the easiest situation with a small camera. Again, the photos looked great.

Balloons, of course, taken with the SD890.

I also took some marco shots. There was a little distortion around the edges, but it was more than adequate for my basic needs. I could get the lens to focus at about 1.5 inches away from the subject (here, my SD400 rear panel)

Full frame macro shot example.

What I don't like (so far)

I don't like the rear LCD. It performs well, and it is a decent size with good brightness. But it almost stands out from the rear surface of the camera. That means when I lay the camera on a table, flat on it's back, it seems likely that the LCD will get scratched. YUK. I think I'll have to be very careful to avoid scratching up the rear LCD display. Perhaps a vinyl glass protector would work well here.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Verizon FiOS Electricity Use

My house has Verizon FiOS. Part of the FiOS installation included the mounting of a Verizon network backup battery unit in the basement. I asked myself "how much electricity does this box use?"

Verizon FiOS: How much electricity does this cost me?


So I plugged in my watt meter to find out.

My kill-o-watt watt meter reported that there was a 16 watt load on the circuit. And since Verizon's box is powered and plugged in 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, 16 watts would quickly add up to roughly 140 kilowatt hours per year:

calculation: 16 watts x 8760 hours per year ÷ 1000 = 140.16 KWH/Year

How much does 140 Kilowatt-hours cost in dollars and cents? Here's a table that shows how much that would cost per year based on recent residential electricity rates (source: DOE. State Electricity Profiles, 2006 Edition):

State ¢/KWH )
$/Year
Alabama 7.07
$9.91
Alaska 12.84
18.00
Arizona 8.24
11.55
Arkansas 6.99
9.80
California 12.82
17.97
Colorado 7.61
10.67
Connecticut 14.83
20.79
Delaware 10.13
14.20
Wash. DC
11.08
15.53
Florida 10.45
14.65
Georgia 7.63
10.69
Hawaii 20.72
29.04
Idaho 4.92
6.90
Illinois 7.07
9.91
Indiana 6.46
9.05
Iowa 7.01
9.83
Kansas 6.89
9.66
Kentucky 5.43
7.61
Louisiana 8.3
11.63
Maine 11.8
16.54
Maryland 9.95
13.95
Massachusetts 15.45
21.65
Michigan 8.14
11.41
Minnesota 6.98
9.78
Mississippi 8.33
11.68
Missouri 6.3
8.83
Montana 6.91
9.69
Nebraska 6.07
8.51
Nevada 9.63
13.50
New Hampshire 13.84
19.40
New Jersey 11.88
16.65
New Mexico 7.37
10.33
New York 15.27
21.40
North Carolina 7.53
10.55
North Dakota 6.21
8.70
Ohio 7.71
10.81
Oklahoma 7.3
10.23
Oregon 6.53
9.15
Pennsylvania 8.68
12.17
Rhode Island 13.98
19.59
South Carolina 6.98
9.78
South Dakota 6.7
9.39
Tennessee 6.97
9.77
Texas 10.34
14.49
Utah 5.99
8.40
Vermont 11.37
15.94
Virginia 6.86
9.61
Washington 6.14
8.61
West Virginia 5.04
7.06
Wisconsin 8.13
11.40
Wyoming 5.27
7.39


Remember it is possible that the load put on the battery box circuit changes over time, and that your battery box may be different than the one in my house. Also note that this analysis doesn't include a FiOS router or your TV converter boxes. I can imagine that they each consume similar amounts of electricity, but more analysis would be necessary to find out.

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

The MacBook Air, 3G and the Internet

I've been reading a lot about how Apple "screwed up" the MacBook Air because it didn't include a "3G mobile phone modem".

The idea that Apple should have included a 3G chipset is, of course, stupid.

Just about every modern 3G handset out there can operate as a 3G modem for wireless internet. A handset can be connected to the MacBook Air via either USB or Bluetooth, automatically giving any Mac full wireless internet capabilities - over the cell phone network, without WiFi.

So what are the pundits talking about? They're talking about the purpose built modem plans and cards that are sold by the mobile service providers. Of course, these cards exist just because many older laptops didn't have bluetooth. These purpose-built 3G cards are effectively obsolete. These power-hungry, service-dependent cards are still being sold because they work adequately well with old computers. But given modern handsets and bluetooth, the old cards won't be around much longer.

So, why are the pundits still talking about baking a 3G interface into the MacBook Air? Because they either own one of these cards, or they think these cards are "cool". But what they don't realize is that they're obsolete technology.

Monday, January 21, 2008

MacBook Air features in the MacBook Pro?

Now that the MacBook Air has been revealed, many are curious about what's next.

The MacBook and the Mac Mini continue to be lower-cost winners for Apple and their customers. It isn't costing Apple much to keep these designs around, and they continue to sell well. I don't suspect that Apple will substantially change these machines until Intel releases a compelling alternative to the Core 2 Duo platform.

The MacBook Pro is also a winner, but its basic design has been around since about 2003. I suspect that the MacBook Pro will have a substantial redesign in mid-to-late 2008.

Does the MacBook Air reveal the roadmap for the Pro?

It's time for an update, and Apple's recent products should give us a hint of where its going: Thin and Gorgeous.

Apple's most recent new products, the Nano, Touch, and Air, all follow that attractive theme. Products that don't fit that mold are clearly yesterday's designs. Apple's flagship notebook line no longer fits the future.

The MacBook Pro is a pretty device, but now it's boxy and dated. But it remains quite capable: a recent report concluded that the MacBook Pro runs Vista faster than any other notebook.

How Apple could update the MacBook Pro line is fairly clear: The new Core 2 chipset used in the Air requires less space, less power, and less cooling. Using this class of chipset in the Pro series will permit it to be substantially smaller. I expect a 15" and a 17" Pro that is substantially thinner and lighter than the current series. Being a "Pro", I expect Apple to retain all of the ports and features of the Pro series. Except one....

Internal optical drives: Deprecated, or obsolete?

The big question is: will Apple keep the optical drive in the Pro? An optical drive adds a lot of volume and weight. It reduces battery life. An optical drive reduces the overall reliability of the machine. And with BluRay, optical drive technology is in flux. Given all that, Apple may conclude that the lack of the internal optical drive will make the Pro an even better platform.

Other Air features for the entire Notebook line

The Air also points us to other new features. A new Magsafe connector and micro DVI connector are well suited to thin platforms. I suspect that Apple will commonize these interfaces on their product lines to simplify the customer experience, and to reduce the number of dongles and adapters they need to stock. And for the same space saving reasons, Apple may switch to the small 4-pin FireWire interface, as seen on numerous laptops, as it is both common and small.

Conclusion

The Nano and Air shows us that Apple is being aggressive in terms of design. The MBA is a compete rethink of notebook design. Many of these lessons learned should find their way into the MacBook Pro as Apple redefines the high-end notebook computer market.

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Why the MacBook Air sucks

In the spirit of PC Magazine, here are thirteen reasons why the MacBook Air sucks.

1. $999 SSD option.

Crazy-but-true, the 64 GB solid state "disk drive" option costs $999. I'm sure I could buy a 64+ GB solid state drive for much less. Although I haven't shopped for one, they should cost about $200, right? So Apple, why $999?

2. No Vista

That's right, you buy this thing for $1799 (or more), and it doesn't come with the ultimate Vista - a $600 afterthought? If I want to spend money on a laptop, PLEASE include the Ultimate!

3. No MS-Office

Again, you buy this thing, you can't even edit MS-Word documents - its an extra piece of software that wasn't included!!! This is getting painful!

4. No replaceable battery.

My Olympus digicam used readily-available AA batteries. This thing uses a built-in weirdo battery.... that can't be replaced by normal users! What's the deal??? I want to use AA batteries, so if my battery runs dead on the airplane, I can just pop in new ones from my camera!

5. Almost zero ports

Sure, it has USB2 port, but it only has one. And I hate hubs! Also, there is no Ethernet - what if I want to plug it into a Hotel network? And no FireWire! Totally lame!

6. Too thin.

It looks too thin. I want a little workout with a laptop. This thing will get lost or broken. Give me my IBM T21 any day.

7. Too expensive and attractive.

A Dell laptop can easily be found for under $1200. This one, the lowest end version, is $1799! Can you say "high profit"? And knowing Apple, they'll likely drop the price like a rock soon, just like they did with the iPhone. And it will be stolen or scratched. That'll really blow.

8. No OS9 support.

Everyone remembers how awesome OS9 was... but it won't run on this Mac! The only reason for a Mac is to run OS9 applications like Hypercard and IE5. Now it is an impossibility.

9. No audio in

This blows. There is no way to get audio into this thing. How am I going to rip LPs with this??? And Bluetooth? That'll never take off.

10. No 3G support

Yep, this one isn't compatible with Verizon. It doesn't even have analogue backup.

11. Not enough RAM

Everyone knows that 2 GB isn't enough these days. This is a huge limitation that will prevent work from being done. That's why business would never go with the Mac - 2 GB just isn't enough - a serious business always goes with at least 4 GB of RAM on desktops.

12. Not upgradeable

My desktop PC has 5 - count them - 5 PCI slots, plus a parallel port, floppy drive, and three DVD burners. This one has just one USB2 port. HA! It has zero memory slots, and no IDE ports. There isn't even a port for a Centronics printer! At least they finally unloaded Firewire.

13. Too big.

A 13-inch "small" notebook? PLEASE! I want a small laptop like the 10 inch Sony Vaio, not a huge ship anchor! Apple, PLEASE make a small laptop, under 2 pounds.

Conclusion
Clearly, as I and other industry experts have shown, the MacBook Air is fatally flawed. I'm sure other trade magazines will agree that the PC industry is going in the exact opposite direction, and for good reason - Vista deserves a Power Platform.

I'll let you know when my MacBook Air comes in.

MacBook Air Disassembled

Now what we've all been waiting for is a full disassembly of the MacBook Air. How take-apart -able is the MacBook Air? Is there a good opportunity for Apple to upgrade the RAM to a full 4 GB? Is it possible to swap-out the HDD with a larger capacity model, or with a non-standard SSD? And how easy is it for a user to replace the battery?

Fixing my Bent and Warped PowerBook

My 12" PowerBook G4 developed a little warp or bend so that it didn't sit flat any more. It would wobble on a desk as I typed - annoying!

A straight edge on the front palm rest clearly showed the bend.

To fix it, I removed the battery and put some slight pressure on the corner, reforming it into its original shape. Now it looks gerat AND it sits nice and flat on my desktop.

Thursday, December 27, 2007

A Free Internet Backup Service

For years I've had an RSYNC backup solution for my immediate family's computers. Each computer would perform a remote RSYNC over SSH to my home Linux box on a daily basis. It worked great, but it was a pain in the butt for a few reasons:

  1. Lots of parts to maintain.
  2. A lack of on-disk encryption.
  3. No easy restoration process.
  4. Required me to have a server powered up all the time.
Recently, I stumbled upon a Mac and Windows internet backup solution for the grand price of Free. It's called Mozzy Home, and its pretty darn good for the following reasons:
  1. It's free for the first 2 GB of storage
  2. It supports encryption - Mozy can't even see your file content (but it does appear that they can see your filenames and directory structure)
  3. It is super easy to set up
  4. The client software is pretty good, and supports easy restores.
You can get a free Mozy Home account here (shameless referral code attached):

https://mozy.com/registration/free

The biggest limitation with the (free) Mozy Home is the 2 GB limit. But for about $5 a month, you can back up an unlimited amount of storage - that's a lot!

Now I was thinking "Cool, now I can back up the terabytes of storage of my work server for $60 bucks a year". Um, no. The license doesn't seem to allow for that kind of use... and for good reason - crazy customers would likely swamp them with "unlimited" data. For professional use, you have to go for their "Pro" plan, which, sadly, fails to support pro-class platforms such as Unix, Linux, or even Mac OS.

So although Mozy isn't my option for the corporate servers I'm responsible for, it is a fine solution for Windows and Macintosh home computers. It greatly simplifies my Family Technical Support responsibilities, and I won't have to discuss the difficultly of data recovery when a drive crashes.

Porsche Key Remote Battery Repair Video How-To

We now live in the age where part of life is spending time and money maintaining and repairing things like your car keys.

My Porsche's remote key was getting weaker and weaker, until one day it stopped operating altogether. Keyless remote without the remoteness. Not so good.

I was a bit fearful spending a sizable chunk of my time at the dealership to have such a small problem addressed, and so I decided that I would try to replace it myself.

The following video guide shows you how to successfully open up the key and replace the alarm remote battery.


Items required:
  • A clear work surface
  • A small blade-type screw driver
  • A CR-2032 battery or equivalent (available in many stores)
Nothing feels better than a free Porsche repair.

CFL Globes: Good and Bad

Some Globe-style CFLs are sucky.

As you know from reading my blog, I'm a fan of not throwing away my hard-earned cash. So it was obvious for me to replace my incandescent bulbs with much more efficient CFL bulbs. My conversion saved me quite a bit of money, but there was one trouble-spot: the CFL globes I installed in the bathroom.

I have one of those old-fashioned bar fixtures in the bathroom, designed for a set of three exposed globe-style bulbs, and so only globe style bulbs would look right in the fixture. I use my bathroom quite a bit, and the fixture with incandescent bulbs would normally require 180 watts to power (3 bulbs @ 60 watts each). Replacing them with CFLs seemed like an easy target for reducing electricity costs. "No problem!" I thought, since globe CFLs are readily available in retail stores.

My 1980's Style Bathroom Light Bar with Globe CFLs.
GE CFL in the center, Sylvanias on each side.

I bought a set of three 14 Watt "Commercial Electric" globe CFLs from Home Depot (I think). Sadly, they had a long startup time - much like the CFL bulbs of yesteryear. I would go into the bathroom, flip on the switch, and wait in the dim light for a minute or more. It all came to a head when guests arrived - they complained that the bathroom lights weren't working. I told them to "hold it" for another minute while the bulbs warmed up. Embarrassing. Soon after, one of those globes failed - my one and only CFL failure.

I considered swapping out the fixture for a more modern one (that doesn't use all the tacky globe bulbs), but since I live in an apartment and don't want to make investments on my landlord's behalf, I decided to stick with the old-fashioned fixture.

I went back to the store (Lowe's?) and bought a set of three 9 watt Sylvania globe CFLs. I figured that a brand like Sylvania would operate more to my satisfaction, but I was wrong. The Sylvania globes were even slower in terms of startup. As a fix, I ended up swapping out the center CFL with a 25-watt incandescent globe in order to provide enough light at startup, and then after a minute or so the Sylvania globes would catch up and surpass the brightness of the 25 watter. Finally, my bathroom lighting was adequate, with two crusty CFL globes and one incandescent globe.

It all came to an end this week, when the incandecent blew out after a pitiful 3 months of use. So I went back to the store to buy a replacement. I found a GE CFL globe at Target, rated at 15 watts. I decided to give it a try, and plunked down $6 for the bulb (versus $2 for a short-life incandecent globe).

I placed the GE globe in the middle position of the fixture, again to give suitable light while the slow Sylvanias warm up. And to my glee, the GE gets bright very quickly. It takes less than a second for it to fire up, and almost immediately delivers full brightness. And that will make my bathroom experience all that much better, with a total consumption of about 33 watts - a reduction of almost 150 watts.

I could replace the two remaining Sylvania globes with GE globes, but now that I have plenty of light, I'll keep my bathroom lighting in its current configuration.

Conclusion and Recommendation

If you're buying globe-style CFLs, I recommend that you try the GE globes. I haven't had good luck with the other globe-style CFLs I've tried.

Other than globes, I've had great luck with CFLs. I haven't had a single issue with a "twist" or capsule CFLs, regardless of brand.

If you have other experiences or helpful hints, feel free to comment.

What kind of camera do you own?