Skip to main content

TP-Link X20: The Good and the Bad.

I have a love/hate relationship with the TP-Link DECO X20.

I have a few of these set up in other peoples' homes. There are the things that I love about the X20, but they have serious limitations that I strongly dislike. I would recommend them to some people, but I would never buy one for my own home. Here are the details why.

Photo of TP-Link Deco X20

Overview

The Deco X20 is a cute-looking WiFi6 (802.11ax) mesh router system.

  • You can buy them in one, two, or three node packs. You can add more nodes later if you wish. One of my setups is a three node system, and one is a two node system.  It might be wisest to buy the three pack and sell off any nodes you don't need.
  • Each node is a dual radio device, with optional Ethernet back-haul.
  • Each node has two Ethernet ports that can be used for wan uplink, lan, or client device
  • They look like pretty little cylinders with an external power brick.

The Good

  • These are stupidly easy to set up. There is very little configuration that needs to happen. They are pretty much in line with the Apple philosophy in terms of making home networking super-easy.
  • They seem to be reliable. I have not noticed any of the devices rebooting on its own, or any other problems.
  • They seem to be plenty fast. They don't have any issue meeting the speeds of my ISP (basically, a Gigabit in the best case).  Sure, it can be slower at the periphery, but that's just how radio works.
  • They automatically (and optionally) support Ethernet for the back-haul.

The OK

  • They are good looking cylinders, so users will be tricked into leaving them out in the open, which is always going to be better than leaving them in a cabinet or behind the sofa. But wall mounting requires the purchase of custom 3rd party brackets, and ceiling mounting is a "never".
  • The smartphone app is pretty decent. Hopefully they don't kill it prematurely like so many vendors do. No one buys devices to just throw them into the e-waste bin after a few years. 
  • Like any WiFi device, placement is important. It's a good idea to minimize node count.
  • They are designed to be used indoors only.  They are not compatible with very hot or very cold temperatures, so they may not be suitable for placement in a garage or the porch or outdoor spaces that do not have climate control.

The Annoying

  • Limited configuration options. People who disliked Apple's Airport products due to their lack of obvious configuration options will hate these far more. Even the most basic settings like channel selection and channel width are not available. In relative terms, the Airport had a ton more options.
  • The device's WiFi channel selection is stupid. Sure, these are 802.11ax, but why are you choosing a 40 GHz channel in the middle of the 2.4GHz spectrum in a noisy neighborhood? It is as if TP-Link is going out of their way to noise up the spectrum, and I know of no recourse.
  • Firmware updates? These are pretty new devices. I can't believe they haven't seem a firmware update in over 18 months. Bug fixes? Security fixes? I can't believe that their software is so perfect.
  • No DFS, of course, as although these seem premium, in reality they are low-end consumer devices (despite the price tag suggesting otherwise).

Conclusion

I wouldn't buy the X20 for my home, but I do think they work well for people who need a very simple multi-node system within a very large residential home in outer suburbia. I'm concerned about the manufacturer's control over the device, and I hate the inability to tweak the channel settings.


Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a...

Verizon FiOS Electricity Use

My house has Verizon FiOS. Part of the FiOS installation included the mounting of a Verizon network backup battery unit in the basement. I asked myself "how much electricity does this box use?" Verizon FiOS: How much electricity does this cost me? So I plugged in my awesome Kill-A-Watt electricity usage meter to find out. My Kill-o-Watt watt meter reported that there was a 16 watt load on the circuit. And since Verizon's box is powered and plugged in 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, 16 watts would quickly add up to roughly 140 kilowatt hours per year: calculation: 16 watts x 8760 hours per year ÷ 1000 = 140.16 KWH/Year How much does 140 Kilowatt-hours cost in dollars and cents? Here's a table that shows how much that would cost per year based on recent residential electricity rates (source: DOE. State Electricity Profiles , 2006 Edition): State ¢/KWH ) $/Year Alabama 7.07 $9.91 Alaska 12.84 18.00 Arizona 8.24 11.55 ...

Hot (and Cold) Attic Tempertures and Electronic Equipment

An unfinished attic can be an extreme environment for electronic equipment, with conditions that are very unlike what is experienced inside normal living spaces. What's the deal with installing electronic equipment in an unfinished and uninsulated attic?   I wanted to install a standard WiFi router in my attic to function as a Wireless ISP (WISP) gateway. My attic is a fantastic location from a radio signal perspective, but it is an uncomfortable place for both people and electronic gear. Although the attic is well insulated, that insulation is on the floor, designed to keep the living space of my home at moderate temperatures. As a WISP gateway, my WiFi router is best mounted above the insulation and close to the roof, where the only protection from weather extremes is the wood of the roof and a layer of asphalt shingles. Equipment Specifications and Extremes Almost all electronic equipment has a set of specifications regarding operating environment. These specifications state the...

Fix a Lightning Cable with Heat Shrink Tubing

We've all seen a Lightning cable that has started to fall apart.  They get used every day, and after enough tugs and yanks on your iPhone, they start to fray. I've seen a lot of these frayed cables, so I've started to fix them before they break with heat shrink tube.  I get my heat shrink on Amazon, like this handy and inexpensive pack.   I prefer the heat shrink tubes without internal glue - it has higher flexibility and a smaller outside diameter once shrunk. Heat Shrink Tubing on an Old, Frayed Lightning Cable In the photo here, you'll see that I slid on a 1.25 inch length of heat shrink over the lighting connector, and then shrunk it into place.  I chose a diameter that just barely fits over the lightning connector.  In all, it took about 60 seconds to perform this repair. Warning: the white plastic of the lightning cable has a pretty low melting point.  It seems to start to melt at about 125°C (or about 250°F), which is the same temperatur...

Other Posts

Show more