Skip to main content

Using a MikroTik hAP as a WISP gateway

I no longer use a cable company for Internet service. My new Internet service provider offers me Internet over WiFi, otherwise known as a Wireless ISP (WISP).  I use a WiFi router as the gateway to my WISP, and it was far easier to get reliable high performance than I originally envisioned.

MikroTik hAP as a WISP modem

 

My neighbor is a professional with a lot of Internet needs. He contracts with a company that has a huge Internet pipe, and he offers the service to the neighbors using 802.11ac wireless. Given my close proximity to him and the low cost of service, this is an incredible deal for Internet service.  

At first I thought I would need to install a dedicated outdoor WiFi access point with a directional antenna to get a decent signal, but I decided to start simple and experiment with equipment I had around the house. Since I like the quality, functionality, and price point of MikroTik gear, I decided to start with the inexpensive MikroTik hAP AC Lite I had on hand.

At first I connected to the WISP using the hAP on my workbench, and it worked pretty reliably.  This was surprising because my workbench is in a lousy location for wireless anything. From there, I took the MikroTik around my house, testing every physical location near an Ethernet jack.

The best location for quality seemed to be on a first floor window sill.  It was super fast and reliable in the window, but the window location had one huge problem: there was a very high risk of what home network administrators call spousal network interference.  This means that my spouse would give me interference about network gear sitting in the living room.

Happily, I found an even a better location: my attic.  I have an Ethernet feed in the attic, and the attic location is up high with a minimum amount of stuff in the way of a WiFi signal.  The hAP performed just as well in the attic as it did in the living room window, and it it could be out of everyone's view.   

Why the MikroTik AC Lite?

I'm sticking with the MikroTik hAP AC Lite.  It is my preferred solution for a number of reasons:

  • The hAP AC Lite is very inexpensive (under $50), yet it has extensive configuration options.
  • Attic temperatures can easily exceed the capabilities of most routers.  In my area, attic temperatures can bottom out around -5°C in the winter and hit as high as +40°C in the summer sun.  And then there are the extreme days that can happen once or twice a year, where it could go as low as -25°C in the winter and as high as +50°C in the summer.   Unlike many routers, the hAP has is rated for operation between -30°C to +70°C.
  • The hAP performs well for my application.  The latency between my local network and the "far side" of my neighbor's WISP infrastructure is consistently under 2ms.  I get a full bidirectional 75 Mbps throughput, which is the maximum bandwidth that my WISP offers to me. 
  • The hAP is very reliable.  The vendor provides frequent software updates. I have never had a problem with it crashing or acting flaky.

My networking setup

The hAP is operating as my Internet modem and my home router. The MicroTik connects to the WISP over 802.11ac and routes traffic to my local ethernet network via a CAT5 cable to my basement-mounted switch.  I plan to have the same hAP operate as an Ethernet switch to feed other two upstairs rooms that  have Ethernet jacks, but I don't want to crawl in the attic just for you: I'll connect those feeds when I have a need.

Power

I have limited AC power in the attic, and I'm just too lazy to spend a few awful hours installing a convenient 120v power outlet up there.  Regardless, PoE is a better solution because it means one less component in the attic.

Although the hAP supports passive PoE, my home's primary switch is provides "active, standards based PoE".  Therefore, I use a PoE to 12v splitter to feed the PoE power to the MikroTik.  I do wish that the hAP model supported standards-based PoE, but at least my splitter work-around is reliable and inexpensive.

The other beauty of PoE is I can easily do a hard power reset by breifly pulling the cable at the switch.  I've never needed to do that (the MikroTik has been rock-solid), resetting the power remotely sure does beat having to crawl up into the uncomfortable attic.

Conclusion

Using the hAP as an attic-mounted WISP gateway is a reliable and affordable solution for me.  My only plan for change is to improve the cable management and device mounting in the attic.

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Repairing a Crate TX15 Taxi amplifier battery

A friend gave me a Crate battery guitar amp that he used for busking. It is a nice 15 watt amp with an internal battery. Sadly it died, and its custom power adapter was misplaced. After several years the battery will fail, and it requires a functioning battery to work at all. Happily, new batteries are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to install. Obtaining a replacement battery for the TX15 The original battery was a 4+ pound, sealed lead battery. Any replacement battery should closely follow the specs of the original. I bought this MightyMax Battery on Amazon , which is a perfect replacement. There are many batteries that conform to the needs of the TX15, and they can be found at local hardware stores as they are commonly used in lots of equipment. It pays to look locally if you need something faster than Amazon.  The battery specs are as follows: 12 Volt, 7.2 Ah lead battery (mine was marked 1272). Length: 5.94" (151 mm)  Width: 2.56" (65 mm) Height: 3.94" (100...

Macintosh: Upgrading an eMac

It's been a long time since I wrote this article, but the fact remains: The good old eMac can still be useful if you take the simple steps to keep it as good as it can be.  All can run Tiger, and most can run Leopard - great operating systems for their day with a bit of useful life.  This article describes the procedure I used to upgrade my old eMac, including: Replacing the internal hard disk with a large capacity drive. Increasing the memory for performance Upgrading the operating system Here I'm upgrading a 700 MHz eMac, but the procedure and tasks for upgrading other eMac models should be almost identical. Upgrading versus Replacing My sister's eMac is of the 700 mhz variety, with 256 MB of memory. The machine seemed to be getting "slower", and the original 40 GB disk was becoming jammed packed with photos and iTunes, and within a few months she'd be out of disk space. There were two options to address the problems: upgrade the eMac, or go o...

Keep That Old Printer, or, New Printers Stink

Old laser printers have some notable advantages over many newer printers. An old laser can be found for little money. You can easily find great working printers on Craig's List for under $40. My old-school HP LaserJet 5L - still works like a champ! The inexpensive toner cartridges for these printers can often be found on Amazon for under $20 each. And each cartridge, typically rated for several thousand pages, can last five times longer than many more expensive inkjet cartridges. And these old printers are solid. Many were designed last for years in high volume situations. And they were designed to be maintained, instead of thrown away. My laser is nearly 15 years old and it keeps on ticking. Keeping it Modern Buying a good old fashion laser jet for under $40 is easy. But it likely has an old-fashion Parallel interface on it - meaning that your computer can't even use it. What to do? My answer was to buy an Epson Net C823781 Print Server . It isn't the latest device...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...

Installing the Eve Smart MotionBlind Upgrade with my Large Roller Shade

I have a large window in the front of my house and a roller shade was just the right window treatment for it.  But I also wanted to automate it. My MotionBlind Upgrade kit and my new roller shade I looked around to buy something that I was comfortable with, but simple non-automated roller blinds can be expensive, especially when they're larger than 6 ft x 6 ft.   This is disappointing, as a roller blind is just a tube with a small amount of synthetic cloth but can easily cost hundreds of dollars. Plus, since I wanted a smarthome blind, we're talking $500 or more from the "service oriented shops". I'm a tech guy.  I think can do better. After thinking about DIY and creative solutions, I decided to try out the Eve MotionBlinds Upgrade (MBU) kit.  This kit transforms an ordinary roller blind into a smart blind.  The MotionBlinds mechanism is basically consists of a small motor and battery in a long metal tube.  This motor tube slides into a roller blind ...

Other Posts

Show more