Skip to main content

Using a MikroTik hAP as a WISP gateway

I no longer use a cable company for Internet service. My new Internet service provider offers me Internet over WiFi, otherwise known as a Wireless ISP (WISP).  I use a WiFi router as the gateway to my WISP, and it was far easier to get reliable high performance than I originally envisioned.

MikroTik hAP as a WISP modem

 

My neighbor is a professional with a lot of Internet needs. He contracts with a company that has a huge Internet pipe, and he offers the service to the neighbors using 802.11ac wireless. Given my close proximity to him and the low cost of service, this is an incredible deal for Internet service.  

At first I thought I would need to install a dedicated outdoor WiFi access point with a directional antenna to get a decent signal, but I decided to start simple and experiment with equipment I had around the house. Since I like the quality, functionality, and price point of MikroTik gear, I decided to start with the inexpensive MikroTik hAP AC Lite I had on hand.

At first I connected to the WISP using the hAP on my workbench, and it worked pretty reliably.  This was surprising because my workbench is in a lousy location for wireless anything. From there, I took the MikroTik around my house, testing every physical location near an Ethernet jack.

The best location for quality seemed to be on a first floor window sill.  It was super fast and reliable in the window, but the window location had one huge problem: there was a very high risk of what home network administrators call spousal network interference.  This means that my spouse would give me interference about network gear sitting in the living room.

Happily, I found an even a better location: my attic.  I have an Ethernet feed in the attic, and the attic location is up high with a minimum amount of stuff in the way of a WiFi signal.  The hAP performed just as well in the attic as it did in the living room window, and it it could be out of everyone's view.   

Why the MikroTik AC Lite?

I'm sticking with the MikroTik hAP AC Lite.  It is my preferred solution for a number of reasons:

  • The hAP AC Lite is very inexpensive (under $50), yet it has extensive configuration options.
  • Attic temperatures can easily exceed the capabilities of most routers.  In my area, attic temperatures can bottom out around -5°C in the winter and hit as high as +40°C in the summer sun.  And then there are the extreme days that can happen once or twice a year, where it could go as low as -25°C in the winter and as high as +50°C in the summer.   Unlike many routers, the hAP has is rated for operation between -30°C to +70°C.
  • The hAP performs well for my application.  The latency between my local network and the "far side" of my neighbor's WISP infrastructure is consistently under 2ms.  I get a full bidirectional 75 Mbps throughput, which is the maximum bandwidth that my WISP offers to me. 
  • The hAP is very reliable.  The vendor provides frequent software updates. I have never had a problem with it crashing or acting flaky.

My networking setup

The hAP is operating as my Internet modem and my home router. The MicroTik connects to the WISP over 802.11ac and routes traffic to my local ethernet network via a CAT5 cable to my basement-mounted switch.  I plan to have the same hAP operate as an Ethernet switch to feed other two upstairs rooms that  have Ethernet jacks, but I don't want to crawl in the attic just for you: I'll connect those feeds when I have a need.

Power

I have limited AC power in the attic, and I'm just too lazy to spend a few awful hours installing a convenient 120v power outlet up there.  Regardless, PoE is a better solution because it means one less component in the attic.

Although the hAP supports passive PoE, my home's primary switch is provides "active, standards based PoE".  Therefore, I use a PoE to 12v splitter to feed the PoE power to the MikroTik.  I do wish that the hAP model supported standards-based PoE, but at least my splitter work-around is reliable and inexpensive.

The other beauty of PoE is I can easily do a hard power reset by breifly pulling the cable at the switch.  I've never needed to do that (the MikroTik has been rock-solid), resetting the power remotely sure does beat having to crawl up into the uncomfortable attic.

Conclusion

Using the hAP as an attic-mounted WISP gateway is a reliable and affordable solution for me.  My only plan for change is to improve the cable management and device mounting in the attic.

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

E-waste portfolio grows, thanks to the losers managing Ring.

 I just installed a Ring doorbell the other day, and in perusing the website I read this gem: "security updates until at least four years after the device is last available for purchase"  Four years is all Ring promises for a brand new device?  This isn't 2007.  It's a mass market doorbell and a camera, something expected to be safely used for years, if not decades.  Even my home router has a longer promised life, and that's saying something. Ring management must be embarrassed by their ineptness.  They're idiots, and clearly the only way they know how to make a buck is not through great ideas and great implementations, but through planned obsolescence and customer abuse.  

Apple TV HD - The Best Streaming box ever

I purchased my Apple TV on its release day, in October 2015.  It continues to serve me perfectly, after nearly 10 years of active use. Although it is decidedly not the newest model of Apple TV, it does 100% of the things I want it to do without any issues.  Sure, I'd love a more modern SoC, gigabit Ethernet, Thread support, 4k video support, etc, but honestly I am not missing any of those features, so "upgrading" it today would be a waste of money.  I did sell the original Siri remote in 2023 and upgrade to the 3rd generation (USB-C) Siri remote. The original Siri remote was working great, but I figured after 7.5 years of use, it was time to get a new remote with a new battery.  I will likely upgrade my Apple TV in the future, but I can't predict when that will be.   Due to a quirk of its release strategy, this Apple TV was discontinued in late 2022, and so it is likely to be supported for several more years. A new device would have to be a leap ahead, because m...

Canon SD890 Review

My Canon PowerShot SD890IS Review Wahoo! I just received my new Canon PowerShot SD890IS . Here's my review of the new SD890IS. Updated! (20-April-2008)! I like taking good photos. And I hate lugging around big cameras and equipment. And so I concluded that I needed to buy myself an awesome point-n-shoot camera. I often take pictures in difficult conditions, such as a museum where a flash camera is prohibited. Or a concert, where I can't use a flash, the lighting is low, and the people on stage are in motion. Or with the zoom cranked up and focused on a distant subject. Taking good photos in these conditions, with a small lens camera and without a tripod is a challenge at best. In comes the SD890. I was particularly excited about the SD890 because it is pocketable, yet it has awesome specifications: Image stabilization ; a 5x zoom lens, and 10 megapixel resolution. When I bought the camera, I imagined that these features would help me take much better pictures in the...

Repairing a Crate TX15 Taxi amplifier battery

A friend gave me a Crate battery guitar amp that he used for busking. It is a nice 15 watt amp with an internal battery. Sadly it died, and its custom power adapter was misplaced. After several years the battery will fail, and it requires a functioning battery to work at all. Happily, new batteries are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to install. Obtaining a replacement battery for the TX15 The original battery was a 4+ pound, sealed lead battery. Any replacement battery should closely follow the specs of the original. I bought this MightyMax Battery on Amazon , which is a perfect replacement. There are many batteries that conform to the needs of the TX15, and they can be found at local hardware stores as they are commonly used in lots of equipment. It pays to look locally if you need something faster than Amazon.  The battery specs are as follows: 12 Volt, 7.2 Ah lead battery (mine was marked 1272). Length: 5.94" (151 mm)  Width: 2.56" (65 mm) Height: 3.94" (100...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...

Other Posts

Show more