Skip to main content

Ring Video Doorbell Wired - DC and AC Power Improvements

There are many choices when powering a wired Ring Video Doorbell.  Most people just reuse their existing doorbell power, but I wanted to see if I could improve that situation.

When I first hooked up my Ring Wired Doorbell, I used an existing Honeywell Plug-in AC Transformer.  These AC transformers are very popular for both video doorbells, traditional doorbells, and security systems.  They reduce standard home voltages (120VAC in North America) to 16.5 VAC.

In contrast, modern DC power adapters for home electronics are efficient. There are global efficiency standards on modern adapters, and in the USA the current efficiency standard is called "Level VI".  These efficiency standards help ensure that idle equipment has near-zero power draw, and that active equipment isn't wildly inefficient. The thing is, the standards are for modern single-voltage DC power adapters, but given that my Ring Wired Doorbell was hooked up to my home's 1990's vintage AC doorbell transformer, I saw an opportunity for improvement.


Original Honeywell 16.5 VAC Transformer for my Ring

 

Modern Power Adapter with efficiency VI (marked on right, in circle)

 

I wanted to improve this set-up for three specific reasons:

  1. I wanted to power all my critical network gear with my CyberPower UPS during power outages, including my Video doorbell.  Lower power consumption means more minutes of runtime when on UPS Battery. Inefficient power supplies are a detriment to UPS runtime.
  2. AC transformers are big and bulky, to the point where I had to lash mine to a board with zip ties.  That small board also holds all my home networking gear, so my hope was to reduce the amount of space used up by power adapters.
  3. Measurement with my plug-in Kill-a-watt meter showed that my Ring on the Honeywell AC adapter had a power consumption of 4.3 watts.  Over 10 years, that's 380 kWh, or about $93.  Not that much, but can I do better and have some extra money for beer?

All this got me thinking: I already had a capable and efficient 12 VDC power adapter brick in place.  Thanks to a DC splitter cable, I use this single 12 VDC power brick to power my modem and router.  So I was wondering: could I use that same 12V brick to power the Ring too?

The answer is... not all by itself.

The Ring Power Problem... and Fix

Probably 99% of people power their Ring Wired doorbells with a standard AC doorbell transformer, but there is another option: the Ring Wired can also use DC power using the Ring 24 volt DC adapter.  So the Ring can use DC voltage, but my 12VDC adapter wasn't going to make the grade.

Happily, there is a fix!  By using a very inexpensive, adjustable Boost converter, I can boost my adapter's 12 VDC power to 24 VDC for use by the Ring.  The 12VDC adapter is connected to my Boost converter, and the boost converter sends 24VDC to the Ring. After a quick hook up, it works 100% perfectly. 

Ring "Device Health" Experimentation

Given that my boost converter has adjustable voltage, it made sense for me to experiment.  The Ring app has a "device health" tab, and an entry in that tab is "transformer voltage", which in my experimentation can range from "good" to "poor".  Taping on the transformer voltage line reports the actual voltage seen by the Ring.  After adjustment, I find that the Ring app reports any input voltage between 14V and 24V as "good".  

The Ring Device Health tab complains about "poor" voltage at 12V, and sometimes doesn't even function.  So for now, I am providing the Ring with a 14 Volts DC.  (Note that the 14V is being reported at the Ring, and the voltage will drop with wire length/resistance.)


The Ring app reports a warning (or doesn't even work) at 12 VDC.

 

The Ring app shows voltage in the green at 14 VDC ... up to 24 VDC.

 


The Win

Overall, by combining all my power adapters together, I achieve 3 useful outcomes:

  • My CyberPower UPS can now power my network for 15% more time.
  • My modem, my router, and my Ring all operate on a single high-efficiency 12VDC power adapter, eliminating two bulky power bricks.
  • Kill-a-watt measurement shows that this reduces my Ring power consumption by 70% savings over the original AC power brick strategy. Considering all my gear, now I save about 4 watts, which amounts to an $86 savings over a decade (not including my < $14 in parts to hook this up). 

In short, this was an easy win and a general improvement over a default power configuration.


Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a...

Robust Installation of an HDHomeRun Networked TV Tuner. 64 OTA channels!

I added an HDHomerun (HDHR) over-the-air (OTA) streaming box to my home network, bringing over-the-air broadcast TV to my computers, phones and tablets.  The HDHR is a big upgrade from my previous setup: using a simple "window mount" antenna directly connected to my TV. A TV-attached antenna is good for watching some TV for free, but the HDHR offers so much more flexibility. Figure 0: HDHomeRun on my basement wall   My original OTA TV setup was haphazard at best. It was finicky, ugly, and hard for other people at home to use. I would actually tape my antenna to a window whenever I wanted to watch OTA TV. Plus, it only worked on my TV and not with my other devices. I wanted a cleaner and more modern OTA setup. After looking at possibilities, I developed two goals: (1) bring my OTA TV into the modern Internet-connected era, and (2) set it up in a reliable and pretty way so that other family members wouldn't have to fool around with the antenna or anything else.  With that,...

Dustbuster Switch Repair

My Dustbuster vacuum - a CHV-1410, gets a lot of use.  We use it several times per day, every day.  It is a workhorse. Sadly, it was becoming unreliable.  It would be fully charged, and I'd hit the switch and maybe it would begin to start and then stop, or it would lurch and stop - or maybe it would do nothing. My CHV-1410 had a broken switch At first I thought it was the battery, but then I found that by carefully wiggling the switch I was sometimes able to get the vacuum to work.  All that on-off action over the years made the switch unreliable. Instead of throwing away an otherwise perfectly good vacuum, I decided to replace the worn switch.  It's an easy and worthwhile repair with the right part. The one special part needed: A specific $5 Switch There seems to be two types of switches used in these, based on the charging mechanism: For the Lithium models (CHV-1410L and similar), I notice that there are only two conductors are attached to the sw...

MacBook: burnt out magsafe connector repair

My MacBook (A1342 model from 2009-2010) stopped working, thanks to a cheap knockoff magsafe charger. The magsafe connector looked burnt with heat-distorted melted plastic and some black carbon surfaces.  Plugging in the charger resulted in no lights and no action.  My MacBook was dead. First I tried to clean up the connector with some Q-Tips, tooth picks and solvent, but that did little, as seen in this "after" picture (below).   The heat generated by the aftermarket charger permanently deformed and distorted the MacBook's magsafe connector.  Clearly the damage was significant. Burnt Magsafe Connector - Replacement Required! Looking at iFixIt , I determined that it would not be difficult to replace only the magsafe connector with the right tools.  I hoped and prayed that the problem was isolated to the connector assembly and not the logic board. I bought a replacement magsafe connector assembly (available from Amazon) for under $20 and started to rep...

Excellent DD-WRT Router for Me: Netgear WNDR3400 / N600

My WiFi performance was suffering, and so I decided to do something about it and upgrade my router. When I say my WiFi performance was suffering, I really mean it:  I live in a large high-rise apartment building and there are 100+ WiFi access points visible from my home office.  All of the contentious traffic was severely curtailing my WiFi reliability.  I was lucky to get 1 Mbit/second throughput.  Sometimes I was lucky to stay connected even with my WiFi router in the same room. I decided it was time to go for 5 GHz, which is a WiFi band which is used less frequently and which has a tougher time traversing walls.  And of course I wanted DD-WRT support.  The set of features I was looking for included: Trouble-free DD-WRT support 5 GHz 802.11n Support Simultaneous dual band capability Inexpensive.  Maybe even cheap.  For me this means under $50.  Under $35 is even better! It sounds like an easy task to bring all this together: A...

Other Posts

Show more