Skip to main content

Modernizing old house network wiring - Part 10 - Rethinking some plans

I've decided to power ahead in some areas, but to limit my spending.

My main goal now is wiring, and not buying equipment that I won't need within the next six months... or that I might never need.

Here are the details:

Television

At first I was going to buy an HDTV Streaming box with a large OTA TV antenna mounted in the attic.   I was getting excited and putting all sorts of stuff into my Amazon and eBay carts.  But I'm not nearly ready to start watching more TV in my house, and so I've decided to delay any TV-related purchasing decisions for now.

Instead of buying new equipment, I'm just going to plan for possibilities.  That means prepping the
building with appropriate cabling.  

I learned that all of my major local TV stations are nearby (within 8 miles), and all the "weak and missing" TV stations are pointless IRN stations ("infomercial/religious/nut-job").  Furthermore, all the "weak" stations will be in the fringe even if I use a large, tall, and expensive outdoor antenna.  Many thanks to http://tvfool.com/ and http://antennaweb.org/ for helping me understand my specific TV reception situation.

I don't feel like spending any money to receive IRN television channels that I will never want to watch, so my new strategy is to keep it simple and improve it over time.  My cheap antenna that I have - a  $12 "indoor" antenna - pulls in all of my important channels 98% of the time, even in my very solid brick and metal house.  Placing my little indoor antenna in the attic and routing the signal to my TV by re-configuring the existing coaxial cable might give me 100% of what I want.  Will this work well enough?  I don't know, but I don't see the harm in trying.

My overall savings of this strategy is about $150, as I no longer need to immediately buy an HD Streaming box or a fancy antenna.  The new strategy is a zero dollar expense.

Network

My wiring plan will support Gigabit ethernet and PoE, but my initial equipment will be non-PoE and a mere 100 Mbit.  Once I have a need for PoE and Gigabit, I'll upgrade my network.

By skipping out on the tech purchases today, I can waiting six months (... or 48 months ...).  In that amount of time, network equipment will be cheaper and more modern. It pays to wait.

So for now, instead of buying my favored router, a new PoE switch for $250+, I'll use my existing GL.iNet router and my existing 8-port switch.  Again, my initial investment for equipment will be nothing, but I can always upgrade.

Continuing

I am mostly planning for now because I have an injury.  Next time I'll cover my connector strategy.


Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a...

Adding a Water Flood Sensor to my Vista-20p alarm system

My Honeywell Vista 20p alarm system is fairly comprehensive, but I want one more feature: an alarm that lets me know when my sump pump isn't working properly. Here is how I added one for about $8 in special parts.   I'm afraid of a flood in my finished basement. I'm fortunate - my basement sump pump system is already redundant, with two independent pumps and two outflow pipes. The primary pump kicks in when the water level reaches 6 inches, and if that doesn't work, then the backup pump kicks in when the water level reaches 7 inches.  The backup pump should never kick in unless the primary pump is having a problem pumping.   But there is a problem with this setup: I might never know if my primary pump has failed, leaving me with no redundancy.  I want to be informed when I have one (or god forbid, two) pump failures. My goal is to have my Vista 20p alert me when the sump's water level is ever beyond the point where my primary pump should have kicked in, alertin...

Macintosh: Upgrading an eMac

It's been a long time since I wrote this article, but the fact remains: The good old eMac can still be useful if you take the simple steps to keep it as good as it can be.  All can run Tiger, and most can run Leopard - great operating systems for their day with a bit of useful life.  This article describes the procedure I used to upgrade my old eMac, including: Replacing the internal hard disk with a large capacity drive. Increasing the memory for performance Upgrading the operating system Here I'm upgrading a 700 MHz eMac, but the procedure and tasks for upgrading other eMac models should be almost identical. Upgrading versus Replacing My sister's eMac is of the 700 mhz variety, with 256 MB of memory. The machine seemed to be getting "slower", and the original 40 GB disk was becoming jammed packed with photos and iTunes, and within a few months she'd be out of disk space. There were two options to address the problems: upgrade the eMac, or go o...

MacBook: burnt out magsafe connector repair

My MacBook (A1342 model from 2009-2010) stopped working, thanks to a cheap knockoff magsafe charger. The magsafe connector looked burnt with heat-distorted melted plastic and some black carbon surfaces.  Plugging in the charger resulted in no lights and no action.  My MacBook was dead. First I tried to clean up the connector with some Q-Tips, tooth picks and solvent, but that did little, as seen in this "after" picture (below).   The heat generated by the aftermarket charger permanently deformed and distorted the MacBook's magsafe connector.  Clearly the damage was significant. Burnt Magsafe Connector - Replacement Required! Looking at iFixIt , I determined that it would not be difficult to replace only the magsafe connector with the right tools.  I hoped and prayed that the problem was isolated to the connector assembly and not the logic board. I bought a replacement magsafe connector assembly (available from Amazon) for under $20 and started to rep...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...

Other Posts

Show more