Skip to main content

Modernizing old house network wiring - Part 7 - Interlude - My Home Data Center

Before I hop into the next part of the project, I want to cover my thoughts and feelings of what I want in my home data center.

A lot of people have been asking me what I want in a rack system.  The basics seem easy: a standard 19 inch rack that's able to mount at least 14 U's.  Anything less seems just not big enough - routers, switches, a patch panel, power, and maybe a couple servers... it can add up.  Boy, that would look so incredible!

But let me take a step back before I go down a path like that.

My old Telecom Backboard was a Wreck

My home telecom backboard in the basement was old-school, and it was nothing like a data center.  Instead, it was the world's worst telecom backboard, with 70+ years of sloppy modification. There were at least 22 cables hanging around the area, with about 65% somewhat attached to something else, and the other 35% left dangling.  There were a lot of bare wires twisted together, along with a few wire nuts.   The "backboard" itself consisted of a 1 x 4 piece of scrap wood.  Mounted on the panel was a cable TV splitter and a barrier strip used for a subset of the telephone wiring. There was also a telephone company interface box, which by rights should have been mounted on the panel, but instead was left dangling. 

Now I've removed all that and I'm nearly back to a clean slate.  It's time to think about the future.

My New Home Data Center Solution

I'm an IT guy and I've designed and run mission critical systems and applications within large, established organizations full of industry-leading engineers.  I have substantial expectations when it comes to IT.  But my expectations are likely very different than what people might imagine.

A lot of people on the Internet seem to be interested in "professional looking" data center racks, but what I see is are racks that are great for a photo-op but that are awful from cost, labor, and space perspectives.  I see a lot of good-looking but unnecessary cabling, professional equipment mixed with poor consumer equipment, and a lot of over-complication.  That's exactly not what I'm looking for.

I'm an IT guy.  I like the appropriate level of engineering for the job.   My configuration will be professional, highly reliable, flexible, and appropriately affordable.

So instead of making a faux "data center for the home", I'm going for what's appropriate for my home: I'm going for a plywood backboard, 18 inches wide and 36 inches tall.   There will be no racks, no doors and likely very few blinky lights.   The new panel will have 4.5 square feet dedicated to modern data equipment and clean cable management.  It's a big step ahead.  It's sustainable.  It's appropriate.

My equipment and cabling will be directly attached to this board using clips and screws.  I'll buy what I need, and no more.  Because we all know that IT equipment has a limited operational life.  If it runs out of steam can capacity, I can replace the board with a fancy rack later.

Key Equipment On My Telecom Panel

This is what I'm planning to have hanging on my plywood telecom backboard.  I've linked to the products I'm thinking about:
All of this will be wall mountable.  I can envision a few other small items, but that's about it.

In short, this set up will likely cost under $200 and will include everything I need.

Would a rack really make this set up better?  No.  Then I'd have to buy a big and power-hungry rack-mount equipment.  Would a patch panel make it better?  No, a patch panel would not only mean more connectors and cables, it also means wiring nightmare.

I might add other devices to my telecom panel, but I have no plans for them out of the gate.  Things that I might add later include:
  • UPS: I might want to replace the power strip with a small wall-mountable UPS.  ($40)
  • TV Streaming Tuner: I might want to add a device to stream over-the-air TV to my LAN ($80)
  • MOCA: I might want to add a MOCA interface for the coaxial cable, but it seems unlikely ($80)
  • Analog Telephone Interface.  Haha, just joking.  This is obsolete technology.
And that's it!

Next Up

Next time I'm planning to mop up some of the remaining ugly cabling.


Popular posts from this blog

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Repairing a MagSafe Charger's Cord

Here is how to repair the cord of Apple MacSafe power adapters. There are three common failure modes of a magsafe wire: The base of the cord becomes frayed where the wire enters the power brick.  This is usually caused by repeatedly wrapping the cord far too tightly around the brick's "ears". The head of the magsafe connector becomes frayed.  This is usually caused by repeatedly removing the magsafe magnet by yanking on the cord. Chewed up cord.  This is where a pet or other pinching device weakens the cord. These types of failure are usually repairable at home using the technique described here. Tools Required: A beginner's Soldering kit, like this one, including a low-wattage soldering iron, rosin-core Solder, and wire strippers. Heat shrink tubing .   Any color works, but these days I use white to repair a MagSafe cord. One Soldering Sleeve, appropriate for 22 or 24 AWG wire Heat gun (optional.) Process:   The general process is t...

Repairing a melted LG refrigerator digital control light panel

My LG refrigerator's control panel and light dome was melting and started to detach. My fridge looked awful, with melting plastic that started to get in the way of my food. Here is how I easily repaired the control panel in 15 minutes and for under $20. That's far less than a $325 service call! A Repaired LG Control Panel The Repair This procedure will work for many LG models even if the control panel itself looks pretty different, as my procedure does not replace the electronic module or its associated control panel label - it only replaces the damaged plastic housing. Stuff Required A good mid-sized Phillips head screwdriver A very sharp knife, like a pen knife or box cutter The replacement LG control panel trim piece, about $15 on Amazon Two 3-Watt LED bulbs that put out much less heat - minimizing a chance for re-occurrence Repair Instructions 1. Turn off the LG refrigerator. I simply unplugged it, or you can hit the cir 2. Unclip light dome from the contr...

Robust Installation of an HDHomeRun Networked TV Tuner. 64 OTA channels!

I added an HDHomerun (HDHR) over-the-air (OTA) streaming box to my home network, bringing over-the-air broadcast TV to my computers, phones and tablets.  The HDHR is a big upgrade from my previous setup: using a simple "window mount" antenna directly connected to my TV. A TV-attached antenna is good for watching some TV for free, but the HDHR offers so much more flexibility. Figure 0: HDHomeRun on my basement wall   My original OTA TV setup was haphazard at best. It was finicky, ugly, and hard for other people at home to use. I would actually tape my antenna to a window whenever I wanted to watch OTA TV. Plus, it only worked on my TV and not with my other devices. I wanted a cleaner and more modern OTA setup. After looking at possibilities, I developed two goals: (1) bring my OTA TV into the modern Internet-connected era, and (2) set it up in a reliable and pretty way so that other family members wouldn't have to fool around with the antenna or anything else.  With that,...

Verizon FiOS Electricity Use

My house has Verizon FiOS. Part of the FiOS installation included the mounting of a Verizon network backup battery unit in the basement. I asked myself "how much electricity does this box use?" Verizon FiOS: How much electricity does this cost me? So I plugged in my awesome Kill-A-Watt electricity usage meter to find out. My Kill-o-Watt watt meter reported that there was a 16 watt load on the circuit. And since Verizon's box is powered and plugged in 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, 16 watts would quickly add up to roughly 140 kilowatt hours per year: calculation: 16 watts x 8760 hours per year ÷ 1000 = 140.16 KWH/Year How much does 140 Kilowatt-hours cost in dollars and cents? Here's a table that shows how much that would cost per year based on recent residential electricity rates (source: DOE. State Electricity Profiles , 2006 Edition): State ¢/KWH ) $/Year Alabama 7.07 $9.91 Alaska 12.84 18.00 Arizona 8.24 11.55 ...

Other Posts

Show more