Skip to main content

Modernizing old house network wiring - Part 5 - Converting RJ11 to RJ45

Welcome back. Last time I finished sorting out all my old Cat5 cable.  Now I know where all the cables go, and I know that all the Cat5 cables are usable for Ethernet.  I crimped an RJ45 connector to the ends of each cable.  But right now it is all just "dark wire" sitting in the walls.  I need to start finishing something.

I removed the old wallplates when I added on the RJ45 connector to each Cat5 cable, but I won't be able to reuse them because my goal is Ethernet.  My old wallplates have the telephone style "RJ11" jacks, and most of those wall plates also have a Coax TV cable. They're going to be RJ11-style plates forever, so I put them in my box of "old outlets".

And remember I also need a Coax outlet in each of my wallplates for the TV wires. 

Keystone Wallplates

I'm going to use Keystone wall plates, which are often used in commercial buildings and advanced home set-ups.  Keystone wallplates have from one to six small square openings so that different data outlets can be configured.  Keystone is great and flexible wallplate for data jacks.



Since the vast majority of my outlets will have Ethernet and Cable TV, I bought a number of 2-hole keystone plates.   I also purchased a 10-pack of of Ethernet keystone couplers.  The couplers allow me to just plug my in-wall Ethernet cable into the keystone, without having to hook up each wire individually.

In order to finish my outlets I also bought a set of Coax keystones, and a set of blank keystones for when I would otherwise have an empty hole in my wallplate.

I went with all white, but if I add "special" Ethernet ports later (like higher speed ports or something), I'll use a different color.

Installing the plates was easy.   I found this the best way:
  1. Snap the Ethernet Coupler Keystone into bottom position of the plate. (My aesthetic design is Cable TV on top, Ethernet on the bottom).
  2. Screw the Coax Keystone into the Cable TV coming out of the wall.
  3. Snap the Coax Keystone into the top position of the plate
  4. Click in the Ethernet cable coming out of the wall
  5. Gently tuck all the cables back
  6. Screw the plate into the wall.
This made for each and quick work, and the results look fantastic!

Next Up...

Next time, I'm really going to deal with all those Cable TV cables... which ones work, which ones are broken, and which of the crazy bundle in the basement goes to which room?

Popular posts from this blog

Repairing an HP Pavillion DV6 Motherboard

Here's my procedure on how to remove and replace the logic board of an HP Pavilion DV6. My model is a DV6-3122US, and many DV6s of the 3000 series are similar. These machines often fail to start due to a motherboard failure.  With a motherboard failure, upon pressing power the fan will first spin and the power light comes on.  The capslock key will flash white once every 4 seconds, and the f12 key will stay a solid orange, and the screen - although powered up - displays black only. Although the caps lock "single blink" indicator at boot implies a CPU failure, in my experience it is not due to the CPU itself but the supporting components on the motherboard. The only solid solution is to repair or replace the motherboard.  Replacement boards are readily available.  I bought one and replaced it myself. Disassembly Procedure NOTE: The screws are different sizes, and its important to reinstall them correctly.  I color-coded the different screws in the photos...
Read more

Various ways of powering the MikroTik hAP

I have several MikroTik RB952Ui hAP AC Lite routers.  They're located in closets, basements, attics, and on desktops.  Each location results in different needs in terms of power.  Happily, the hAP AC Lite is quite flexible when it comes to power.  Here I document the three different ways I have powered my MikroTik AC Lite routers. Power Solutions: Active PoE+ Splitter, Passive PoE Injector, and Standard wall adapter Standard Power: MikroTik (or aftermarket) Wall Wart The default way to power the AC Lite is by using its standard "barrel-style" power port, which is far more flexible than your typical router.  The AC Lite accepts power between 10 and 24VDC.  When using the MikroTik in a desktop configuration, I use the stock 24 volt MikroTik power adapter .  The stock adapter output specifications are as follows: 24 VDC 1200 mA  2.1mm barrel Center Positive  Passive Power-over-Ethernet solution: TP-Link Power Injector Sometimes it is useful to ...
Read more

Hot (and Cold) Attic Tempertures and Electronic Equipment

An unfinished attic can be an extreme environment for electronic equipment, with conditions that are very unlike what is experienced inside normal living spaces. What's the deal with installing electronic equipment in an unfinished and uninsulated attic?   I wanted to install a standard WiFi router in my attic to function as a Wireless ISP (WISP) gateway. My attic is a fantastic location from a radio signal perspective, but it is an uncomfortable place for both people and electronic gear. Although the attic is well insulated, that insulation is on the floor, designed to keep the living space of my home at moderate temperatures. As a WISP gateway, my WiFi router is best mounted above the insulation and close to the roof, where the only protection from weather extremes is the wood of the roof and a layer of asphalt shingles. Equipment Specifications and Extremes Almost all electronic equipment has a set of specifications regarding operating environment. These specifications state the...
Read more

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...
Read more

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...
Read more

Installing the Eve Smart MotionBlind Upgrade with my Large Roller Shade

I have a large window in the front of my house and a roller shade was just the right window treatment for it.  But I also wanted to automate it. My MotionBlind Upgrade kit and my new roller shade I looked around to buy something that I was comfortable with, but simple non-automated roller blinds can be expensive, especially when they're larger than 6 ft x 6 ft.   This is disappointing, as a roller blind is just a tube with a small amount of synthetic cloth but can easily cost hundreds of dollars. Plus, since I wanted a smarthome blind, we're talking $500 or more from the "service oriented shops". I'm a tech guy.  I think can do better. After thinking about DIY and creative solutions, I decided to try out the Eve MotionBlinds Upgrade (MBU) kit.  This kit transforms an ordinary roller blind into a smart blind.  The MotionBlinds mechanism is basically consists of a small motor and battery in a long metal tube.  This motor tube slides into a roller blind ...
Read more

Other Posts

Show more