Skip to main content

The iPhone dock connector was bad, and Lightning is awesome

Numerous people in the press are mourning the loss of the iPhone's 30-pin dock connector.  A separate vocal group has often complained about the lack of a Micro-USB connector port on the iPhone.

Both these groups are complaining about Apple's new Lightning dock connector.

But at the end of the day, the Lightning connector is a great move for Apple customers.  Here's why

Limitations of the Micro-USB standard

The 2007 MicroUSB-B connector became a European standard for cell phones in 2010.   Although USB is a good standard, it is far from adequate for modern smartphone use in terms of power, data, or flexibility.

In terms of data, the 2000-vintage USB2 standard provides a practical maximum data rate of roughly 35 MB/second.  However, most smartphones need to deliver faster I/O.  HDMI, for example, requires a consistent 500 MB/second data stream with very low latency rate.  USB2 to HDMI conversion is therefore impossible without a loss in quality.

In terms of power, the USB2 standard stipulates a maximum of 500 milliamps per device, unless its a device on a bus used to charge devices.  But most modern smartphones require much more than 500 milliamps for charging, and so that means either fast charging OR data, not both simultaneously.

In terms of flexibility, USB as implemented on smartphones is as an endpoint device  - not as the USB bus master.  And therefore, the smartphone cannot control other devices on the bus.  The smartphone has as much control of the USB bus as a mouse has on your computer's USB bus.

What about USB 3.0?  Forget it. First of all, it still isn't fast or latency free enough to driver modern HMDI without loss of quality.   Secondly, the MicroUSB 3.0 connector is large and unwieldy, and therefore is not seen on smartphones.

Failings of the classic 30-Pin Dock connector

The dock connector has numerous advantages over the MicroUSB standard.  First of all, it isn't limited to USB - it can carry analog audio and video, as well as HDMI, VGA, and a host of other signals.  It's 30 pins gives it a ton a flexibility you just can't get with a 5-pin USB2 interface.

Secondly, the 30-pin dock connector is expert at zero-insersion force.  What this means is that one can build a standard cradle or dock, and the 30-pin connector can slide home with near-zero crankiness, and be removed with near-zero stick-to-it-ness.  If desirable, cables can add a catch/release mechanism to add connector security, if so desired.

But the dock connector's advantages have led to some disadvantages.  The connector's pins have changed substantially over the years, so few devices are actually universal - old chargers don't work with new docks, new cables don't fit old cases, yesterday's video cables don't work with today's devices.  In all, it has become a hodgepodge, a solution that covers a lot of ground, but which is far from universally compatible.


Which one is a new, official Apple product? [A: both]
Which one works with your iPod? [A: maybe the left one]
Which one fits your case? [A: maybe none]

The next time you're in a hotel, try your old iPod or your newer iPhone in that clock radio with a dock. Does it work as you'd like?  If so, congratulations - your device is of the same vintage as the hotel's clock radio.  Evolution is a bitch.

Glories of Lightning

Lightning introduces a standard very high-speed bus for the iOS platform, much like Thunderbolt for the Intel platform.  It uses active cabling to eliminate all the old-school signaling, and replaces it with a single high-speed bus that can be converted into anything that peripheral manufacturers want to produce.

Lightning is all digital, and so media conversions have to happen within active cables.  This makes it possible to add unlimited new features over time without adding or redefining the interface.  It's bus master is exclusively the iPhone, so the iPhone can control a host of devices (unlike the USB2-B standard crowd).

Lightning is not USB, and therefore isn't subject to USB's limitations.  An active cable along with OS software is used to convert Lightning signaling to USB signaling.

Lightning is as fast as the CPUs on the iPhone, so the practical speed limit is simply what's attached to the other end of the connector, not the connector itself.  HDMI's multi-gigabit speeds?  No problem.  Analog audio/video?  Easy.  USB3?  Absolutely possible.  And as the technology beat moves on, Lighting will be able to deliver.

But wait, how, with only 8 pins, can it be faster than USB3?  Easy.  USB3 is a specific bus arbitration communication standard that travels for meters.  In contrast, Lightning is a direct I/O bus for very short hauls.  What something else?  Make it true with the right converter chip built into the cable. Ethernet. SCSI.  RS-232.  Even 1-wire is within the realm of reason.



Popular posts from this blog

Repairing an HP Pavillion DV6 Motherboard

Here's my procedure on how to remove and replace the logic board of an HP Pavilion DV6. My model is a DV6-3122US, and many DV6s of the 3000 series are similar. These machines often fail to start due to a motherboard failure.  With a motherboard failure, upon pressing power the fan will first spin and the power light comes on.  The capslock key will flash white once every 4 seconds, and the f12 key will stay a solid orange, and the screen - although powered up - displays black only. Although the caps lock "single blink" indicator at boot implies a CPU failure, in my experience it is not due to the CPU itself but the supporting components on the motherboard. The only solid solution is to repair or replace the motherboard.  Replacement boards are readily available.  I bought one and replaced it myself. Disassembly Procedure NOTE: The screws are different sizes, and its important to reinstall them correctly.  I color-coded the different screws in the photos...

Various ways of powering the MikroTik hAP

I have several MikroTik RB952Ui hAP AC Lite routers.  They're located in closets, basements, attics, and on desktops.  Each location results in different needs in terms of power.  Happily, the hAP AC Lite is quite flexible when it comes to power.  Here I document the three different ways I have powered my MikroTik AC Lite routers. Power Solutions: Active PoE+ Splitter, Passive PoE Injector, and Standard wall adapter Standard Power: MikroTik (or aftermarket) Wall Wart The default way to power the AC Lite is by using its standard "barrel-style" power port, which is far more flexible than your typical router.  The AC Lite accepts power between 10 and 24VDC.  When using the MikroTik in a desktop configuration, I use the stock 24 volt MikroTik power adapter .  The stock adapter output specifications are as follows: 24 VDC 1200 mA  2.1mm barrel Center Positive  Passive Power-over-Ethernet solution: TP-Link Power Injector Sometimes it is useful to ...

Hot (and Cold) Attic Tempertures and Electronic Equipment

An unfinished attic can be an extreme environment for electronic equipment, with conditions that are very unlike what is experienced inside normal living spaces. What's the deal with installing electronic equipment in an unfinished and uninsulated attic?   I wanted to install a standard WiFi router in my attic to function as a Wireless ISP (WISP) gateway. My attic is a fantastic location from a radio signal perspective, but it is an uncomfortable place for both people and electronic gear. Although the attic is well insulated, that insulation is on the floor, designed to keep the living space of my home at moderate temperatures. As a WISP gateway, my WiFi router is best mounted above the insulation and close to the roof, where the only protection from weather extremes is the wood of the roof and a layer of asphalt shingles. Equipment Specifications and Extremes Almost all electronic equipment has a set of specifications regarding operating environment. These specifications state the...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...

Installing the Eve Smart MotionBlind Upgrade with my Large Roller Shade

I have a large window in the front of my house and a roller shade was just the right window treatment for it.  But I also wanted to automate it. My MotionBlind Upgrade kit and my new roller shade I looked around to buy something that I was comfortable with, but simple non-automated roller blinds can be expensive, especially when they're larger than 6 ft x 6 ft.   This is disappointing, as a roller blind is just a tube with a small amount of synthetic cloth but can easily cost hundreds of dollars. Plus, since I wanted a smarthome blind, we're talking $500 or more from the "service oriented shops". I'm a tech guy.  I think can do better. After thinking about DIY and creative solutions, I decided to try out the Eve MotionBlinds Upgrade (MBU) kit.  This kit transforms an ordinary roller blind into a smart blind.  The MotionBlinds mechanism is basically consists of a small motor and battery in a long metal tube.  This motor tube slides into a roller blind ...

Other Posts

Show more