Skip to main content

Using GL.iNet WiFi Router to Link Networks Together

I have been happily buying and installing GL.iNet routers for a several years now, so I guess I should document why I like them so much.

I mostly use GL.iNet routers to wirelessly bridge networks together.  They are highly configurable, programmable, reliable, and affordable.

Figure 1: Using an MT300N to bridge two distinct networks together

How I got started with GL.Inet routers.

Prior to my GL.iNet purchases, I was buying inexpensive routers from Netgear and Trendnet that could support DD-WRT.  DD-WRT is cool because it can amp up basic WiFi router hardware with a  reasonably capable operating system on top.  Sadly, DD-WRT isn't always a dream to work with.  I found myself wasting a lot of time with DD-WRT.

While planning out the networking for my new home office, I stumbled on the GL.iNet router series and figured it'd be good to give one a try.  After all, they're extraordinarily inexpensive.

Now, 4+ years later, I can say that it was a great choice. Now I spend very little time administering my network because it works great.  I just do the typical firmware updates on an infrequent basis.

A short summary of the GL.iNet routers I've purchased

I have been buying the (roughly) $20 models.  They only have 2.4 GHz radios, but that's all I need for my use.

Their Benefits:
  • Very low power
  • Easy to administrate
  • Very reliable
  • OpenWRT is pre-installed
  • Easy to install your own software on the router
  • Reasonable performance for the money
  • Very compact
  • Very low cost
Their Limitations:
  • No 5 GHz radio (I don't need 5 GHz for my use)
  • Need a cell phone charger to power it (I have many, so this doesn't bother me)

Details of my Configurations

I have bought a few different models.  Some of these models are no longer available, and their prices may have changed since I purchased, but here's the list:
  • AR300M-Lite
  • MT300Nv2
  • AR150
  • MT300N
NOTE: It is my belief that all of these devices have the same basic capabilities and configurability.  If I were going to buy another today, I'd very likely buy the least expensive model.

The AR300M ($18) - Bridging my Home and Home Office networks

 
I use the AR300M as my home office network router device.  My main house has a good router, but my home office is in a building directly behind my house.  I use the AR300M as a wireless client to my main home router.  Then I have my office router plugged in to the AR300M with Ethernet.  This configuration avoids the duplicative use of any one WiFi channel.
AR300M Network
Using an AR300M to create a distinct Home Office network

I run typical services on the AR300M (DNS, DHCP, NTP, etc). My Office Router simply serves as a simple WiFi access point and ethernet switch.

This setup has been very effective for me.  The AR300M is positioned to get a great signal from the main house router.  Additionally, the AR300M is configured to provide my home office with a distinct IP network.


The MT300Nv2 ($20)

I use the MT300Nv2 as a utility WiFi repeater bridge.  I have this router connect as a WiFi client to any local WiFi access point.   Then other devices can connect to it.  It's great at hotels, starbucks, or whatever.  It is shockingly easy to configure it to act as this kind of gateway.

MT300N
Using the MT300N as a Utility Router / Repeater Bridge
I have configured the ethernet ports to be part of the local network.  This way I can use the MT300N to "add" WiFi to my non-WiFi gear, such as my old ethernet-only tv.

I sometimes power this with a typical USB power bank. Again, it is very reliable.

This setup is a little simpler than what I use for my home office.  Simplicity is good, but I lose maybe 50% of my performance due to the fact that the same WiFi channel talks to both my client devices and to the local WiFi router.


My Retired GL.iNet Routers:

The AR150-Ext ($26)

I had the AR150 variant with the external antenna.  I don't think the external antenna really gave it any more reach than the default antenna.  I mistakenly broke the router by crushing it with my car(!).  I replaced it with the MT300Nv2

The MT300N ($20)

This was my first GL.iNet product.  It served me well for a few years, but then I bought the AR300M for my brother.  He ended up not needing it, so I kept the AR300M and sold my old one on Craigslist.

Labels

Labels:

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...
Read more

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...
Read more

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...
Read more

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a...
Read more

Robust Installation of an HDHomeRun Networked TV Tuner. 64 OTA channels!

I added an HDHomerun (HDHR) over-the-air (OTA) streaming box to my home network, bringing over-the-air broadcast TV to my computers, phones and tablets.  The HDHR is a big upgrade from my previous setup: using a simple "window mount" antenna directly connected to my TV. A TV-attached antenna is good for watching some TV for free, but the HDHR offers so much more flexibility. Figure 0: HDHomeRun on my basement wall   My original OTA TV setup was haphazard at best. It was finicky, ugly, and hard for other people at home to use. I would actually tape my antenna to a window whenever I wanted to watch OTA TV. Plus, it only worked on my TV and not with my other devices. I wanted a cleaner and more modern OTA setup. After looking at possibilities, I developed two goals: (1) bring my OTA TV into the modern Internet-connected era, and (2) set it up in a reliable and pretty way so that other family members wouldn't have to fool around with the antenna or anything else.  With that,...
Read more

Verizon FiOS Electricity Use

My house has Verizon FiOS. Part of the FiOS installation included the mounting of a Verizon network backup battery unit in the basement. I asked myself "how much electricity does this box use?" Verizon FiOS: How much electricity does this cost me? So I plugged in my awesome Kill-A-Watt electricity usage meter to find out. My Kill-o-Watt watt meter reported that there was a 16 watt load on the circuit. And since Verizon's box is powered and plugged in 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, 16 watts would quickly add up to roughly 140 kilowatt hours per year: calculation: 16 watts x 8760 hours per year ÷ 1000 = 140.16 KWH/Year How much does 140 Kilowatt-hours cost in dollars and cents? Here's a table that shows how much that would cost per year based on recent residential electricity rates (source: DOE. State Electricity Profiles , 2006 Edition): State ¢/KWH ) $/Year Alabama 7.07 $9.91 Alaska 12.84 18.00 Arizona 8.24 11.55 ...
Read more

Other Posts

Show more