Skip to main content

Using GL.iNet WiFi Router to Link Networks Together

I have been happily buying and installing GL.iNet routers for a several years now, so I guess I should document why I like them so much.

I mostly use GL.iNet routers to wirelessly bridge networks together.  They are highly configurable, programmable, reliable, and affordable.

Figure 1: Using an MT300N to bridge two distinct networks together

How I got started with GL.Inet routers.

Prior to my GL.iNet purchases, I was buying inexpensive routers from Netgear and Trendnet that could support DD-WRT.  DD-WRT is cool because it can amp up basic WiFi router hardware with a  reasonably capable operating system on top.  Sadly, DD-WRT isn't always a dream to work with.  I found myself wasting a lot of time with DD-WRT.

While planning out the networking for my new home office, I stumbled on the GL.iNet router series and figured it'd be good to give one a try.  After all, they're extraordinarily inexpensive.

Now, 4+ years later, I can say that it was a great choice. Now I spend very little time administering my network because it works great.  I just do the typical firmware updates on an infrequent basis.

A short summary of the GL.iNet routers I've purchased

I have been buying the (roughly) $20 models.  They only have 2.4 GHz radios, but that's all I need for my use.

Their Benefits:
  • Very low power
  • Easy to administrate
  • Very reliable
  • OpenWRT is pre-installed
  • Easy to install your own software on the router
  • Reasonable performance for the money
  • Very compact
  • Very low cost
Their Limitations:
  • No 5 GHz radio (I don't need 5 GHz for my use)
  • Need a cell phone charger to power it (I have many, so this doesn't bother me)

Details of my Configurations

I have bought a few different models.  Some of these models are no longer available, and their prices may have changed since I purchased, but here's the list:
  • AR300M-Lite
  • MT300Nv2
  • AR150
  • MT300N
NOTE: It is my belief that all of these devices have the same basic capabilities and configurability.  If I were going to buy another today, I'd very likely buy the least expensive model.

The AR300M ($18) - Bridging my Home and Home Office networks

 
I use the AR300M as my home office network router device.  My main house has a good router, but my home office is in a building directly behind my house.  I use the AR300M as a wireless client to my main home router.  Then I have my office router plugged in to the AR300M with Ethernet.  This configuration avoids the duplicative use of any one WiFi channel.
AR300M Network
Using an AR300M to create a distinct Home Office network

I run typical services on the AR300M (DNS, DHCP, NTP, etc). My Office Router simply serves as a simple WiFi access point and ethernet switch.

This setup has been very effective for me.  The AR300M is positioned to get a great signal from the main house router.  Additionally, the AR300M is configured to provide my home office with a distinct IP network.


The MT300Nv2 ($20)

I use the MT300Nv2 as a utility WiFi repeater bridge.  I have this router connect as a WiFi client to any local WiFi access point.   Then other devices can connect to it.  It's great at hotels, starbucks, or whatever.  It is shockingly easy to configure it to act as this kind of gateway.

MT300N
Using the MT300N as a Utility Router / Repeater Bridge
I have configured the ethernet ports to be part of the local network.  This way I can use the MT300N to "add" WiFi to my non-WiFi gear, such as my old ethernet-only tv.

I sometimes power this with a typical USB power bank. Again, it is very reliable.

This setup is a little simpler than what I use for my home office.  Simplicity is good, but I lose maybe 50% of my performance due to the fact that the same WiFi channel talks to both my client devices and to the local WiFi router.


My Retired GL.iNet Routers:

The AR150-Ext ($26)

I had the AR150 variant with the external antenna.  I don't think the external antenna really gave it any more reach than the default antenna.  I mistakenly broke the router by crushing it with my car(!).  I replaced it with the MT300Nv2

The MT300N ($20)

This was my first GL.iNet product.  It served me well for a few years, but then I bought the AR300M for my brother.  He ended up not needing it, so I kept the AR300M and sold my old one on Craigslist.
Labels:

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...
Read more

Porsche Key Remote Battery Repair Video How-To

We now live in the age where part of your life is spending time and money maintaining and repairing things like your car keys . My Porsche's remote key was getting weaker and weaker, until one day it stopped operating altogether. Keyless remote without the remoteness. Not so good. I was a bit fearful spending a sizable chunk of my time and money at the dealership to have such a small problem addressed, and so I decided that I would try to replace the battery myself. Items required A clear work surface A small flat blade screw driver. A quality lithium CR-2032 Battery, available here. Procedure The following video shows how I successfully opened up the key without breaking it, and replaced the alarm remote battery. In short, from the vantage point of the key's steel part facing away and the buttons facing up: I take a small screwdriver and press on the little plastic tab on the left side.  At the same time I use my fingers to start to pull the two halves apart.  From th...
Read more

Macintosh: Upgrading an eMac

It's been a long time since I wrote this article, but the fact remains: The good old eMac can still be useful if you take the simple steps to keep it as good as it can be.  All can run Tiger, and most can run Leopard - great operating systems for their day with a bit of useful life.  This article describes the procedure I used to upgrade my old eMac, including: Replacing the internal hard disk with a large capacity drive. Increasing the memory for performance Upgrading the operating system Here I'm upgrading a 700 MHz eMac, but the procedure and tasks for upgrading other eMac models should be almost identical. Upgrading versus Replacing My sister's eMac is of the 700 mhz variety, with 256 MB of memory. The machine seemed to be getting "slower", and the original 40 GB disk was becoming jammed packed with photos and iTunes, and within a few months she'd be out of disk space. There were two options to address the problems: upgrade the eMac, or go o...
Read more

Robust Installation of an HDHomeRun Networked TV Tuner. 64 OTA channels!

I added an HDHomerun (HDHR) over-the-air (OTA) streaming box to my home network, bringing over-the-air broadcast TV to my computers, phones and tablets.  The HDHR is a big upgrade from my previous setup: using a simple "window mount" antenna directly connected to my TV. A TV-attached antenna is good for watching some TV for free, but the HDHR offers so much more flexibility. Figure 0: HDHomeRun on my basement wall   My original OTA TV setup was haphazard at best. It was finicky, ugly, and hard for other people at home to use. I would actually tape my antenna to a window whenever I wanted to watch OTA TV. Plus, it only worked on my TV and not with my other devices. I wanted a cleaner and more modern OTA setup. After looking at possibilities, I developed two goals: (1) bring my OTA TV into the modern Internet-connected era, and (2) set it up in a reliable and pretty way so that other family members wouldn't have to fool around with the antenna or anything else.  With that,...
Read more

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...
Read more

Adding a Water Flood Sensor to my Vista-20p alarm system

My Honeywell Vista 20p alarm system is fairly comprehensive, but I want one more feature: an alarm that lets me know when my sump pump isn't working properly. Here is how I added one for about $8 in special parts.   I'm afraid of a flood in my finished basement. I'm fortunate - my basement sump pump system is already redundant, with two independent pumps and two outflow pipes. The primary pump kicks in when the water level reaches 6 inches, and if that doesn't work, then the backup pump kicks in when the water level reaches 7 inches.  The backup pump should never kick in unless the primary pump is having a problem pumping.   But there is a problem with this setup: I might never know if my primary pump has failed, leaving me with no redundancy.  I want to be informed when I have one (or god forbid, two) pump failures. My goal is to have my Vista 20p alert me when the sump's water level is ever beyond the point where my primary pump should have kicked in, alertin...
Read more

Other Posts

Show more