Skip to main content

Using GL.iNet WiFi Router to Link Networks Together

I have been happily buying and installing GL.iNet routers for a several years now, so I guess I should document why I like them so much.

I mostly use GL.iNet routers to wirelessly bridge networks together.  They are highly configurable, programmable, reliable, and affordable.

Figure 1: Using an MT300N to bridge two distinct networks together

How I got started with GL.Inet routers.

Prior to my GL.iNet purchases, I was buying inexpensive routers from Netgear and Trendnet that could support DD-WRT.  DD-WRT is cool because it can amp up basic WiFi router hardware with a  reasonably capable operating system on top.  Sadly, DD-WRT isn't always a dream to work with.  I found myself wasting a lot of time with DD-WRT.

While planning out the networking for my new home office, I stumbled on the GL.iNet router series and figured it'd be good to give one a try.  After all, they're extraordinarily inexpensive.

Now, 4+ years later, I can say that it was a great choice. Now I spend very little time administering my network because it works great.  I just do the typical firmware updates on an infrequent basis.

A short summary of the GL.iNet routers I've purchased

I have been buying the (roughly) $20 models.  They only have 2.4 GHz radios, but that's all I need for my use.

Their Benefits:
  • Very low power
  • Easy to administrate
  • Very reliable
  • OpenWRT is pre-installed
  • Easy to install your own software on the router
  • Reasonable performance for the money
  • Very compact
  • Very low cost
Their Limitations:
  • No 5 GHz radio (I don't need 5 GHz for my use)
  • Need a cell phone charger to power it (I have many, so this doesn't bother me)

Details of my Configurations

I have bought a few different models.  Some of these models are no longer available, and their prices may have changed since I purchased, but here's the list:
  • AR300M-Lite
  • MT300Nv2
  • AR150
  • MT300N
NOTE: It is my belief that all of these devices have the same basic capabilities and configurability.  If I were going to buy another today, I'd very likely buy the least expensive model.

The AR300M ($18) - Bridging my Home and Home Office networks

 
I use the AR300M as my home office network router device.  My main house has a good router, but my home office is in a building directly behind my house.  I use the AR300M as a wireless client to my main home router.  Then I have my office router plugged in to the AR300M with Ethernet.  This configuration avoids the duplicative use of any one WiFi channel.
AR300M Network
Using an AR300M to create a distinct Home Office network

I run typical services on the AR300M (DNS, DHCP, NTP, etc). My Office Router simply serves as a simple WiFi access point and ethernet switch.

This setup has been very effective for me.  The AR300M is positioned to get a great signal from the main house router.  Additionally, the AR300M is configured to provide my home office with a distinct IP network.


The MT300Nv2 ($20)

I use the MT300Nv2 as a utility WiFi repeater bridge.  I have this router connect as a WiFi client to any local WiFi access point.   Then other devices can connect to it.  It's great at hotels, starbucks, or whatever.  It is shockingly easy to configure it to act as this kind of gateway.

MT300N
Using the MT300N as a Utility Router / Repeater Bridge
I have configured the ethernet ports to be part of the local network.  This way I can use the MT300N to "add" WiFi to my non-WiFi gear, such as my old ethernet-only tv.

I sometimes power this with a typical USB power bank. Again, it is very reliable.

This setup is a little simpler than what I use for my home office.  Simplicity is good, but I lose maybe 50% of my performance due to the fact that the same WiFi channel talks to both my client devices and to the local WiFi router.


My Retired GL.iNet Routers:

The AR150-Ext ($26)

I had the AR150 variant with the external antenna.  I don't think the external antenna really gave it any more reach than the default antenna.  I mistakenly broke the router by crushing it with my car(!).  I replaced it with the MT300Nv2

The MT300N ($20)

This was my first GL.iNet product.  It served me well for a few years, but then I bought the AR300M for my brother.  He ended up not needing it, so I kept the AR300M and sold my old one on Craigslist.
Labels:

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...
Read more

Macintosh: Upgrading an eMac

It's been a long time since I wrote this article, but the fact remains: The good old eMac can still be useful if you take the simple steps to keep it as good as it can be.  All can run Tiger, and most can run Leopard - great operating systems for their day with a bit of useful life.  This article describes the procedure I used to upgrade my old eMac, including: Replacing the internal hard disk with a large capacity drive. Increasing the memory for performance Upgrading the operating system Here I'm upgrading a 700 MHz eMac, but the procedure and tasks for upgrading other eMac models should be almost identical. Upgrading versus Replacing My sister's eMac is of the 700 mhz variety, with 256 MB of memory. The machine seemed to be getting "slower", and the original 40 GB disk was becoming jammed packed with photos and iTunes, and within a few months she'd be out of disk space. There were two options to address the problems: upgrade the eMac, or go o...
Read more

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...
Read more

Transitioning to Comcast Now!

I've transitioned to Comcast NOW, a lower speed, lower cost alternative.  The kids have grown up and moved out.  I'm spending much more of my time traveling.  I don't need the high speeds at home like I used to. This transition promises to save me $240 dollars a year versus my old "discounted" plan. Xfinity to Comcast Now transitioning process I went to the Xfinity store and told them I was cancelling two weeks out.  This isn't weird - people move all the time, so they do have a process for cancelling at a future ("move-out") date. Later the same day, I was able to go to the Comcast website and order the NOW modem for the new service. Note that Comcast didn't let me do this until I had a future cancel order in place.  Three days later, the modem arrived via FedEx. The cancel date came and went - Xfinity seems to have a grace period, so the old modem wasn't unceremoniously yanked out of service at midnight.  This made the transition smooth.  ...
Read more

Picking a Cable Modem for Xfinity

There are a lot of cable modems on the market, and many are compatible with Xfinity service. However, that doesn't mean that every modem is perfect. My basic requirements are: Currently certified by my ISP.  Buying a cable modem that isn't currently certified is simply unlikely to work. Capable of supporting needed service speeds.  Buying a cable modem which cannot deliver the service needed is going to be an immediate bottlebeck.  Buying a cable modem which is far more capable that the service speed is likely a waste of money, No built-in WiFi capability or Telephone line capability.  A personally-owned WiFi router is likely a better choice than an all-in-one unit that will need to be positioned exactly where the cable is within the house.  Don't over-buy.  Cable modems do not last forever.  Manufacturers abandon support, and cable modems aren't infinitely durable due to things like lightning strikes and being powered on for years at a time. So what ...
Read more

Performace and reliability testing of a G.hn Coax to Ethernet Adapter pair

I happened upon a set of Coax to Ethernet adapters and I decided to do an analysis of them. The adapters I found, by Commscope, use the G.hn protocol.  This protocol is used for many media types, with the general idea that existing or legacy cabling can be repurposed for modern home networking. I have some existing idle Coax in the walls and ceiling of my house, so I decided to try these adapters with this legacy copper.  Testing The home coax run I decided to try is a bit more than 10 meters long. I set up two PC clients on my network, with one PC being attached to one of these adapters, which was then attached to the 10 meter long cable. At the far end I attached the other adapter, which was then attached to my primary Ethernet switch.   The coax cable was in three distinct segments, 1 meter + 10 meters + 0.5 meters, all joined together with F-style couplers.   Network tested via iPerf   Results I successfully ran four trials of iPerf3 between my two PCs,...
Read more

Other Posts

Show more