Skip to main content

My Dustbuster Screams like Hell

Once again it is Dustbuster repair time.  This time I needed to fix a very noisy Dustbuster motor.

I use my Dustbuster a lot  - at least three times per day - and so it is a good bet that my Dustbuster is used over 1000 times per year.  My Dustbuster likely has many times more usage than the average dustbuster.

Even though these little machines are quite affordable, when mine started to act a little wonky, I decided that it was to my advantage to fix it.  I don't want to buy a new one every couple years.  I want to maximize it's mileage.

The last time I had an issue, my Dustbuster's power switch became unreliable.  It was an easy fix with an inexpensive replacement part.  But this time the electric motor started to make an awful noise at startup.  I guess a few years of fine dust found its way into the motor bearings.

My goal is to see if it is possible/reasonable to lubricate the Dustbuster's bearings.  So here we go!

Re-lubricating a Dustbuster's motor bearings

Remove six screws to get to the motor.
The motor is within the white protruding part of the housing.


To open up the dustbuster's housing, I used the simple strategy found in my Dustbuster Power Switch Repair guide.

Once I opened the housing, I removed and unplugged the battery, and then I pulled out the motor/fan assembly.

With the assembly in hand, I lifted off the white motor housing by releasing two tabs on the side.   Removing this housing reveals the top of the motor.   I noticed some dirt and grime at the shaft, so I cleaning it up with some Q-Tips.

I did not gain direct access to the bottom of the motor, because it looks like the "fan" is permanently attached to the motor shaft.  Happily, there are some airflow slots that allow some access to the fan-side of the motor shaft. I wiped down this "bottom" bearing shaft with some Q-Tips.

Next I used a single drop of 3-in-1 oil on each side of the motor try to wash out the bearings.  Once the drop was in place, I'd spin the shaft slowly by hand, trying to work the oil into the hidden recesses of the bearing.

Finally, I lubed the shaft with a tiny bit of lithium grease. Again I tried to push the grease into the shaft bearing.

After spinning the shaft in both directions a bit, I was confident that the shaft was reasonably well lubricated.

And then I reassembled in the reverse of disassembly.

There is a lot of dust in the hidden recesses of a Dustbuster, which I managed to loosen when I opened it up.  Therefore, for my first power-on test, I took it outside where a huge plume of dust was exhausted.  Yuk!  But it was more quiet than I ever remembered.  !WIN!

I don't expect this repair to last long - I imagine that the bearing surfaces are worn beyond their useful life, and that my repair just masked the problem with lube that will quickly be pushed away.  But it's worth trying.   I'll update this as things change.

UPDATE, ONE MONTH AFTER FIX:

When I first lubricated the bearings, I thought I'd get a few more uses out of my Dustbuster before it reverted to it's old, noisy ways. Happily, I was WRONG!  My re-lubricated Dustmuster motor bearings are working out fabulously.  I have no complaints.

UPDATE, TWO MONTHS AFTER FIX

After two months of serious use, the bearing started to make noise again.  After some lube, the whole unit started to vibrate.  Yuk!  I figure the bearings are no longer round and that the shaft has become wobbly.  If I'm right, the motor is likely not repairable.

Bad bearings in this motor - it is beyond lubrication ☹️

Happily, I had an junked NiCad based version of the CHV1410 Dustbuster unit that I picked up at a tag sale.  After some inspection, the fan/motor assembly looked like a match.   I cut the old motor out of both units, and then soldered the "NiCad" motor into the "Lithium" Dustbuster wiring harness.  In terms of wiring, I am pretty certain I connected Red to Brown, and Blue to Black.  I reassembled and I'm back in action again.  She now works like a charm!


Replaced motor works like a charm!



Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Keep That Old Printer, or, New Printers Stink

Old laser printers have some notable advantages over many newer printers. An old laser can be found for little money. You can easily find great working printers on Craig's List for under $40. My old-school HP LaserJet 5L - still works like a champ! The inexpensive toner cartridges for these printers can often be found on Amazon for under $20 each. And each cartridge, typically rated for several thousand pages, can last five times longer than many more expensive inkjet cartridges. And these old printers are solid. Many were designed last for years in high volume situations. And they were designed to be maintained, instead of thrown away. My laser is nearly 15 years old and it keeps on ticking. Keeping it Modern Buying a good old fashion laser jet for under $40 is easy. But it likely has an old-fashion Parallel interface on it - meaning that your computer can't even use it. What to do? My answer was to buy an Epson Net C823781 Print Server . It isn't the latest device...

Repairing a Crate TX15 Taxi amplifier battery

A friend gave me a Crate battery guitar amp that he used for busking. It is a nice 15 watt amp with an internal battery. Sadly it died, and its custom power adapter was misplaced. After several years the battery will fail, and it requires a functioning battery to work at all. Happily, new batteries are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to install. Obtaining a replacement battery for the TX15 The original battery was a 4+ pound, sealed lead battery. Any replacement battery should closely follow the specs of the original. I bought this MightyMax Battery on Amazon , which is a perfect replacement. There are many batteries that conform to the needs of the TX15, and they can be found at local hardware stores as they are commonly used in lots of equipment. It pays to look locally if you need something faster than Amazon.  The battery specs are as follows: 12 Volt, 7.2 Ah lead battery (mine was marked 1272). Length: 5.94" (151 mm)  Width: 2.56" (65 mm) Height: 3.94" (100...

Installing the Eve Smart MotionBlind Upgrade with my Large Roller Shade

I have a large window in the front of my house and a roller shade was just the right window treatment for it.  But I also wanted to automate it. My MotionBlind Upgrade kit and my new roller shade I looked around to buy something that I was comfortable with, but simple non-automated roller blinds can be expensive, especially when they're larger than 6 ft x 6 ft.   This is disappointing, as a roller blind is just a tube with a small amount of synthetic cloth but can easily cost hundreds of dollars. Plus, since I wanted a smarthome blind, we're talking $500 or more from the "service oriented shops". I'm a tech guy.  I think can do better. After thinking about DIY and creative solutions, I decided to try out the Eve MotionBlinds Upgrade (MBU) kit.  This kit transforms an ordinary roller blind into a smart blind.  The MotionBlinds mechanism is basically consists of a small motor and battery in a long metal tube.  This motor tube slides into a roller blind ...

The Yamaha DD-65 and YDD-60 Digital Drums

Almost everyone I know who is into drums should get their hands on the Yamaha DD65 . It's a low cost, fun little kit that you can throw in your car to jam with your buddies. It's a lot easier than throwing your gear in your Subaru. The DD-65, also known as the YDD-60. Eight pads in a pretty package. I've owned the older, venerable DD-55 for about five years. The DD-55 is the ancestor of the newer DD-65, and is an evolution of the DD-50, which was first released some time in the mid 1990s. I just put my DD-55 on this light snare drum stand it's ready for some jamming. The classic DD-55. Seven pads of rockin' fun, since about 2001. Yes, everyone will tell you that the DD-55 isn't actually a real drum kit. No kidding. However, a skilled drummer can get some great sound out of this little box, and you can definitely keep the band together with it. Plus, it's perfect for apartment living.

Fix a bad MacBook trackpad

The Problem: A Poorly-Behaving Trackpad Button MacBook trackpads buttons are going bad. Happily, there is a quick and technically-simple fix that may work for many MacBook owners with a misbehaving trackpad. A few months ago I started to notice that my trackpad was operating in a funky manner. The trackpad button had lost its solid click and turned mushy. As I typed the trackpad button would mistakenly register clicks, and the cursor would jump all over the place; The cursor would jump around and my words would end up jumbled. Or a button press wouldn't register at all, and I'd end up trying to smash down of the button with no response. It was the worst experience I’ve ever had with a keyboard and mouse. I tried every technique I could find on the web to try to fix my bad trackpad button – from sliding paper through the gap around button, to MacBook disassembly and vacuuming everything. Nothing made it better. My MacBook was fairly unusable, and getting worse. Af...

Other Posts

Show more