Skip to main content

The Xfinity Prosumer: Internet Price and Performance

We all read the ads and have seen "reviews" about Internet service provider costs and performance, but it is 99.99% advertising and affiliate link disinformation.

The Speed You Need

Most people think they need a gigabit download performance for great Internet performance.  This is nonsense.  Most people are restricted by upload speeds, not download speeds. Why?  Because upload speed is almost always the bottleneck.

Some examples of where upload speed is critical:

  • Zoom and other video calling technology
  • VoIP telephone calling
  • Online real-time gaming

Some examples where download speed is just not important

  • The number of devices you own
  • Streaming video 
  • Streaming audio

All these technologies have a need for timely packet delivery, and with upload speeds being relatively slow, this is where nearly 100% of bottlenecks occur.  If your video call or game isn't behaving well, you've almost certainly saturated your Upload performance.

So let's take a look at the Comcast Xfinity plans from the most important perspective of Upload performance:

  • 10 Mbit/sec: Connect, Connect More, Fast
  • 20 Mbit/sec: SuperFast, Gigabit
  • 35 Mbit/sec: Gigabit Extra

So as you can see, there are really only three upload speed plans.

My advice is to start with the cheapest plan, which is the least expensive at $65*** per month.  If that doesn't work, go to Superfast at $107*** per month.  

Great Bundles and Deals!

Be aware that bundles that include Cable TV or Telephone services frequently have extraordinarily expensive hidden "fees" that do not appear in the special price. These hidden expenses can easily exceed $600 dollars per year.  Once you calculate your real out of pocket costs, it becomes obvious that these "special deals" are a slimy way to do business.  Are they legal?  Yes, they have teams of lawyers and lobbyists that are payed millions to make this legal.  Blame the dummy members of Congress for allowing this trashy way to run a business.

A stern warning about Xfinity's special bundles

NEVER SIGN UP FOR A BUNDLE UNLESS YOU CONSIDER ALL OF THE HIDDEN FEES.

On my sibling's "Super+ special bundle for $149.99", Gigabit Internet + TV, here is the actual cost:

  • Discount Plan Marking Price: $149.99
  • The Fee portion of "Taxes and Fees": $53.52
  • The Tax portion of "Taxes and Fees": $0.05

Yes, this plan costs 136% of the advertised price! For what?  The fees are for things like "installing wires on the street for service" and "paying employees to do their job" and "paying for programming" and "a single TV cable tuner"... but they use buzzwords to hide these very sad realities. 

The actual cost for the "$149.99" plan: $203.56.

But what's worse than a plan that costs 136% of the advertised price?

The customer is under contract and cannot leave without more fees.  The costs are due to go up by $40.00 a month once the "bundle special" expires.  And the plans and fees increase significantly at least once per year.

Could it get more scammy than this?  YES!  Although your new contract may permit you to cancel service within 30 days, your full bill may not show your all your the monthly charges until after 30 days of service. Many thanks again to the dummies you elected to Congress.

*** = These so-called monthly plan fees do not include rental equipment fees or other fees that Comcast reserves the right to add at their discretion, and may increase your costs by 35% or more.


Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Porsche Key Remote Battery Repair Video How-To

We now live in the age where part of your life is spending time and money maintaining and repairing things like your car keys . My Porsche's remote key was getting weaker and weaker, until one day it stopped operating altogether. Keyless remote without the remoteness. Not so good. I was a bit fearful spending a sizable chunk of my time and money at the dealership to have such a small problem addressed, and so I decided that I would try to replace the battery myself. Items required A clear work surface A small flat blade screw driver. A quality lithium CR-2032 Battery, available here. Procedure The following video shows how I successfully opened up the key without breaking it, and replaced the alarm remote battery. In short, from the vantage point of the key's steel part facing away and the buttons facing up: I take a small screwdriver and press on the little plastic tab on the left side.  At the same time I use my fingers to start to pull the two halves apart.  From th...

Macintosh: Upgrading an eMac

It's been a long time since I wrote this article, but the fact remains: The good old eMac can still be useful if you take the simple steps to keep it as good as it can be.  All can run Tiger, and most can run Leopard - great operating systems for their day with a bit of useful life.  This article describes the procedure I used to upgrade my old eMac, including: Replacing the internal hard disk with a large capacity drive. Increasing the memory for performance Upgrading the operating system Here I'm upgrading a 700 MHz eMac, but the procedure and tasks for upgrading other eMac models should be almost identical. Upgrading versus Replacing My sister's eMac is of the 700 mhz variety, with 256 MB of memory. The machine seemed to be getting "slower", and the original 40 GB disk was becoming jammed packed with photos and iTunes, and within a few months she'd be out of disk space. There were two options to address the problems: upgrade the eMac, or go o...

Robust Installation of an HDHomeRun Networked TV Tuner. 64 OTA channels!

I added an HDHomerun (HDHR) over-the-air (OTA) streaming box to my home network, bringing over-the-air broadcast TV to my computers, phones and tablets.  The HDHR is a big upgrade from my previous setup: using a simple "window mount" antenna directly connected to my TV. A TV-attached antenna is good for watching some TV for free, but the HDHR offers so much more flexibility. Figure 0: HDHomeRun on my basement wall   My original OTA TV setup was haphazard at best. It was finicky, ugly, and hard for other people at home to use. I would actually tape my antenna to a window whenever I wanted to watch OTA TV. Plus, it only worked on my TV and not with my other devices. I wanted a cleaner and more modern OTA setup. After looking at possibilities, I developed two goals: (1) bring my OTA TV into the modern Internet-connected era, and (2) set it up in a reliable and pretty way so that other family members wouldn't have to fool around with the antenna or anything else.  With that,...

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...

Adding a Water Flood Sensor to my Vista-20p alarm system

My Honeywell Vista 20p alarm system is fairly comprehensive, but I want one more feature: an alarm that lets me know when my sump pump isn't working properly. Here is how I added one for about $8 in special parts.   I'm afraid of a flood in my finished basement. I'm fortunate - my basement sump pump system is already redundant, with two independent pumps and two outflow pipes. The primary pump kicks in when the water level reaches 6 inches, and if that doesn't work, then the backup pump kicks in when the water level reaches 7 inches.  The backup pump should never kick in unless the primary pump is having a problem pumping.   But there is a problem with this setup: I might never know if my primary pump has failed, leaving me with no redundancy.  I want to be informed when I have one (or god forbid, two) pump failures. My goal is to have my Vista 20p alert me when the sump's water level is ever beyond the point where my primary pump should have kicked in, alertin...

Other Posts

Show more