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My First MikroTik hAP Adventures

I recently upgraded my current home Internet infrastructure with a Mikrotik Routerboard router.  My legacy WiFi equipment had been based exclusively on 802.11n, which still works well but is now two generations old.  I decided to upgrade with a "MikroTik RB952 hAP AC Lite" router, in hopes that it becomes my "personal standard" for home networking.

The MikroTik home router is small, inexpensive (under $50), and highly configurable.  It is reasonably modern, with an 802.11ac radio. It runs MikroTik's RouterOS operating system, which is comprehensive, frequently updated, and provides far more capability than I need.  It also seems to be possible to run OpenWRT on this router.

I was using Apple Airport routers (easy, capable, reliable, but no longer manufactured) and GL.iNet's OpenWRT based routers (flexible and inexpensive, but mine were the 2.4 GHz only models).  They all served me well with no complaints.  I figured that now was the time to try something completely different.

Why I chose the MikroTik hAP AC Lite

I was replacing the legacy routers in my home, and I management networks in several other homes.  I wanted a durable, flexible, and affordable router that I could use in numerous home configurations.

Here's is why I specifically chose the hAP AC Lite: 

  • High reliability.  I don't want to experience frequent dropped clients, reboots, or crashes.
  • Decent network performance for the home, matching the performance of typical US broadband.
  • Regular security/firmware updates
  • Flexibility
  • Low-cost

I don't need the "fastest" or "best".  This is equipment that will support a home network, not a corporate SAN.  I would like the equipment to be good and reliable until networking standards evolve enough to make it obsolete, perhaps in about 7 to 10 years.

Part I: The Basics

The Physical Hardware

The hAP AC Lite is a basic 802.11ac router with five 100-megabit Ethernet ports.  It also has a USB port and a standard DC input jack for power.  The hAP AC Lite has internal, on-PCB WiFi antennas.

The hAP is fairly flexible when it comes to power.  It accepts DC power between 10v and 28v DC.  It can be powered with its included 24v DC power supply, or it can be powered over Ethernet Port 1 using a "passive" PoE power adapter.  Additionally, the hAP has the ability to pass PoE power through to an Ethernet device connected on Port 5 (again, "passive" PoE).  

The hAP has 7 user-facing green LEDs: one LED for each of the 5 Ethernet ports, one LED for power, and one user-programmable LED.  The Ethernet port 5 shines red if it is delivering passive PoE power. All the 5 Ethernet port LEDs are programmable, if desired.

It has a programmable push button switch, which is normally used for reset and WPS.

The hAP can be wall mounted.  The device itself is rated for both hot (+70° C) and cold (-30° C) temperatures, so I see no problem mounting a hAP in my attic where temperatures can swing widely throughout the seasons (maybe from +60°C to -20°C.

Configurability

The hAP is a RouterOS-based device, so there are many configuration options.  However this comes at the expense of not being so easy for the inexperienced user to configure.  I think most new RouterOS device owners would want some decent knowledge in TCP/IP networking and be willing to read online manuals and wikis.  I created my first of many enterprise TCP/IP servers about 25 years ago and have set up a few dozen home routers, but I'm still definitely not a networking expert.  Suffice to say that I was able to figure out and configure everything I needed within a few hours.

Reliability

I am currently running RouterOS 6.48.x.  So far my hAP's uptime has been about 4 weeks without any problems.   In terms of WiFi signal, well, that's always going to be highly depend on your local conditions, but for me it's working out perfectly.

Part II: Home configurations

I currently manage the networks in two homes with a hAP ac lite.

My House

I installed my first hAP in my own home.  I have a wireless ISP (WISP), which provides me with Internet service over WiFi.  The hAP is mounted in my attic in order to pick up the service's signal.

Given my hAP's attic location, I find it most convenient to power it over Ethernet.  Since I already have a powered "active" PoE switch in the basement, I found it simplest to use an "active 12v PoE+ splitter" that I already owned.

 The other end of that Ethernet cable is attached to my basement PoE switch.

 Alice's House

The second configuration is in my friend Alice's house.  The hAP is wall-mounted in a closet,  which is in the very center of the home.  This location provides great signal to the entire building.  One Ethernet port is in use, simply for her Arris cable modem. 

Part III: The Wishlist

So far I am very happy with the hAP AC Lite.  Then again, I still have dreams. I don't actually need anything more than what I have, so what follows is more of a "spec dream" than a need.  The reality is that my dream would make the price point far higher. Without further ado:

  • Native support for active PoE
  • Support for WiFi 6
  • Support for DFS channels.  [Done!  A software update provided this functionality]
  • Support for Gigabit Ethernet
  • More on-board RAM and Flash

Next Time

More updates on my WISP config!


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