Skip to main content

Repairing a melted LG refrigerator digital control light panel

My LG refrigerator's control panel and light dome was melting and started to detach. My fridge looked awful, with melting plastic that started to get in the way of my food. Here is how I easily repaired the control panel in 15 minutes and for under $20. That's far less than a $325 service call!

Photo of a LG Refrigerator Control Panel
A Repaired LG Control Panel

The Repair

This procedure will work for many LG models even if the control panel itself looks pretty different, as my procedure does not replace the electronic module or its associated control panel label - it only replaces the damaged plastic housing.

Stuff Required

  1. A good mid-sized Phillips head screwdriver
  2. A very sharp knife, like a pen knife or box cutter
  3. The replacement LG control panel trim piece, about $15 on Amazon
  4. Two 3-Watt LED bulbs that put out much less heat - minimizing a chance for re-occurrence

Repair Instructions

1. Turn off the LG refrigerator. I simply unplugged it, or you can hit the cir

2. Unclip light dome from the control panel. Unscrew the bulbs.

Photo of a Detaching Melted LG Control Panel
The Digital Control Panel / Light Dome falling off the ceiling of my LG Fridge

3. Using a Phillips-head screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the roof panel in place (see photo). Note that the panel is still attached to the refrigerator due to wires.

Removing screws of the LG control panel
Two screws hold the control panel to the roof of the LG Fridge

4. Using the release tab, un-clip the digital panel wire from the control panel. Similarly, un-clip the lightbulb wire from the top of the fridge.

5. Withdraw the entire control/light panel onto a clean work surface like a kitchen counter.

6. Release the metal light bulb housing from the melted plastic panel by releasing the snaps.

7. Snap the metal bulb fixture into the new plastic panel (again, this is the panel housing I bought)

8. Now we remove the label, which is held in place by a light adhesive. Using a thin knife to get underneath, carefully lift and peel off the control panel label from the melted plastic housing. This label will be re-applied to the new housing, so it is best not to damage it or get its adhesive dirty. Carefully set it aside in a clean, dust-free place.

9. Using a phillips head screwdriver, remove the three screws holding the digital control module into old housing. Then unsnap the the digital control assembly from the old housing.

Damaged LG control panel removed 




Ready to remove the electronics from the melted plastic housing
New LG Control Panel housing
Now ready to install the digital control module!

10. Attach the electronic control assembly into the new housing with the three screws.

11. Re-apply control panel label onto the new housing.


Melted LG Control Panel housing
The Remains: the ugly melted old housing. Yes, it looked this bad!

12. Re-attach control panel to the top of the fridge by reversing steps 5, 4 and 3.

13. Install new low-wattage LED bulbs, to minimize chance of a future meltdown

Photo of a new LG control panel installed
The final result! I only have one LED bulb installed here, but added the second one soon after.

Conclusion

How did this happen? A combination of things: larger 40 watt light bulbs were installed, and the door was left ajar, allowing the heat to build up to the point of melting. The LEDs never get too hot and should last for decades given their limited use.

That's it! Now my fridge looks perfect, and the control panel is no longer in the way.




Labels:

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...
Read more

Picking a Cable Modem for Xfinity

There are a lot of cable modems on the market, and many are compatible with Xfinity service. However, that doesn't mean that every modem is perfect. My basic requirements are: Currently certified by my ISP.  Buying a cable modem that isn't currently certified is simply unlikely to work. Capable of supporting needed service speeds.  Buying a cable modem which cannot deliver the service needed is going to be an immediate bottlebeck.  Buying a cable modem which is far more capable that the service speed is likely a waste of money, No built-in WiFi capability or Telephone line capability.  A personally-owned WiFi router is likely a better choice than an all-in-one unit that will need to be positioned exactly where the cable is within the house.  Don't over-buy.  Cable modems do not last forever.  Manufacturers abandon support, and cable modems aren't infinitely durable due to things like lightning strikes and being powered on for years at a time. So what ...
Read more

Old Apple gear that keeps on ticking

I've been dealing with Apple computer gear for a long time, as have my friends and family. Here is a list of the old gear that me and/or my friends have in active service.   Note that this gear is in real service, and isn't treated as museum pieces or as part of a retro-computing hobby. 2008: Apple Airport Express, draft-N, first generation 2009: Apple MacBook, late 2009 (utility use only) 2010: Apple iPod nano, 6th generation 2013: Apple Airport Extreme AC 2015: Apple TV HD (4th generation) The big winner here is the Airport Express, which is modern enough to do its job, and it just keeps on going.  The device that my friend runs has been in operation for more than 125000 hours.  It received its most recent firmware update on 28 August 2018, 10+ years after its initial release. In terms of security: it has no open, unpatched CVE vulnerability reports.  Many generations of other routers have come and go while this one keeps going.
Read more

Transitioning to Comcast Now!

I've transitioned to Comcast NOW, a lower speed, lower cost alternative.  The kids have grown up and moved out.  I'm spending much more of my time traveling.  I don't need the high speeds at home like I used to. This transition promises to save me $240 dollars a year versus my old "discounted" plan. Xfinity to Comcast Now transitioning process I went to the Xfinity store and told them I was cancelling two weeks out.  This isn't weird - people move all the time, so they do have a process for cancelling at a future ("move-out") date. Later the same day, I was able to go to the Comcast website and order the NOW modem for the new service. Note that Comcast didn't let me do this until I had a future cancel order in place.  Three days later, the modem arrived via FedEx. The cancel date came and went - Xfinity seems to have a grace period, so the old modem wasn't unceremoniously yanked out of service at midnight.  This made the transition smooth.  ...
Read more

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, Repair #2 - Broken Fill Button

My Soda Stream Jet's fill button broke, which means I can not longer carbonate water by pressing the pushbutton. This caused all sorts of grief in my household. Here is how I managed to repair my Jet to give it another 10 years of life (hopefully). First, a look at the button The fill button on the top of the SodaStream is actually a simple lever. Pressing down on the button moves a pin that does the actual work of pressing open the Carbonator's valve. Unfortunately, the axis point is fairly thin and can see a lot of stress. That's where my Soda Stream button cracked. [ I think the usage tip here is "don't over-press the button like a gorilla, it doesn't do anything but put high stress on the button."] Cracked levering point of the button The Pesky Lever Retaining Pin The Fix It was pretty easy for me to replace the button: Take off the back of the Soda Stream and remove the carbonator. Push out the the button lever's steel retaining pin. This takes qu...
Read more

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...
Read more

Other Posts

Show more