Skip to main content

iMac and MacBook Upgrade Tips

I'm the type that tries to get the most bang out of a computer - where many consider a 3 year old computer "end of life", I can easily double that lifespan.

A lot of people ask me what I've done for upgrades to the Macs I manage.  Here are some examples of what I did.

2009 MacBook (6 years old)
2009 MacBook Pro (6 years old)
  • 250 GB SSD (originally a traditional 250 GB drive) 
  • 4 GB of memory not upgraded.  I find 4 GB to be plenty powerful.
2010 MacBook (5 years old)
  • 250 GB SSD (originally a traditional 250 GB drive)
  • 8 GB memory (originally at 2 GB)
    • G.Skill DDR3 RAM 
    • Although 4 GB is powerful enough, I was upgrading it from 2 GB.  So using the principle of upgrading as few times as possible, I moved it to 8 GB.
2011 iMac (4 years old)
  • 8 GB memory (originally at 4 GB)
    • This iMac had two empty memory slots, so I was able to re-use the 4 GB pulled from my 2011 MacBook Pro to bring the iMac from 4 GB to 8 GB.
  • 4 TB Hybrid drive (originally a traditional 500 GB drive)
2011 MacBook Pro (4 years old)
  • 1 TB Hybrid Drive (originally a traditional 750 GB drive)
  • 8 GB memory (originally at 4 GB)
    • G.Skill DDR3 RAM

My Upgrade "Rules"

There are generally two components that I upgrade in an older computer:  Memory and Drive Storage.

Memory
  • Upgrade if memory is less than 4 GB
  • Do nothing if memory is at least 4 GB
Memory used to be very expensive, but now it is quite affordable.   DDR3 memory is about $8 per gigabyte.  If I encounter a computer with less then 4 GB, I generally upgrade to 8 gigabytes.  If a machine already has 4 GB I generally leave it alone.

I generally buy G.Skill memory because I have had good luck with it.

Hard Drive Storage
  • Upgrade if poor performance, and/or less than 50 GB of space available.
  • Do nothing if performance is good and there is at least 50 GB of available space.
Hard drives have more to do with performance than ever before.  All of the search engine indexing and visualization puts more demand on drive performance than ever before - and so a fast drive can make a real difference.

  • Typical Storage Needs:  I think most people would be best served by a 250 GB SSD drive, about $100.  SSDs are blazingly fast, but a bit more expensive on a per-GB basis (about 40¢ per GB)
  • Very Large Storage Needs: If you have an large storage need (multiple user accounts or tons of music, video, and photos), I'd go with a "hybrid" drive, which provides very good performance with a lot of storage for about $80.  This technology combines an old-school magnetic disk technology with a tiny SSD (about 8¢ per gigabyte).
I wouldn't go with a traditional disk unless you are happy with performance.  The price/performance differential, at 6¢ per gigabyte, isn't worth it.

Tools

I use the following tool set for my upgrades.  Having the right tools is key to success.  I would never use the wrong tool.
Why USB 3.0?  It true that few of the devices I work on use USB 3.0.  But soon they will all have USB 3.0, and USB 3.0 is much faster than USB 2.0.  Given the negligible price difference, I go with USB 3.

Popular posts from this blog

Fixing a SodaStream Jet, part 1: Disassembly Guide

I've had my SodaStream Jet for years, and once in a while something has gone wrong. Disassembly is the first step to repair.  Start with this article to see how to disassemble the SodaStream, and then once you have that down, scroll through my other articles to see how I repaired specfic SodaStream problems. SodaStream Jet Disassembly Guide Tools Required Flat head screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver 1. Remove the Carbonator.  Duh. 2. Remove the black panel lever The front big black tilt lever needs to be removed first. Removing this panel is tricky, but it isn't impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the black panel, there are two tabs, one on the left and one on the right. These tabs fully secure the panel in place. The trick is to use a flat-head screwdriver under the plastic to gently lever the tabs out of the way.  Note in the pictures how I approach these tabs with my screwdriver.  I usually release the left side first, and then I release ...

Sodastream Carbonator Leakage, Usage, and Weight

SodaStream 60L "Carbonator" CO2 cylinders have a specific weight when empty, plus about 410 or so grams for the CO2 they should have when they're "full".  A little while ago I went to buy a replacement Carbonator from my local hardware store. The dealer pulled a new Carbonator out of the box and sensed it was lighter than usual.  He put the "light" Carbonator in the "empty" pile and sold me a different one.  At that moment I concluded that it would be smart of me to weigh both new and empty SodaStream carbonators.  Here are the results. Weighing a SodaStream Carbonator - for both Science and Consumer Protection.       The dealer told me that sometimes the carbonators leak after they leave the SodaStream filling facility.  That means there could be an opportunity for customers like me to get ripped off! The SodaStream cylinders I buy claim to have a net product weight of 410 grams - and that means that a full Soda Stream Carbonator shou...

Fixing my Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer

Not everyone would bother repairing a $25 beard trimmer, but why not fix something for under $5 instead of spending another $25? My  Wahl 9918 Groomsman Beard and Mustache Trimmer  has admirably performed its beauty duty for many years, but the time came when the battery just wasn't holding a charge any more.  Most people would just put the trimmer in the trash and buy a new one, but I figured I could repair my otherwise excellent Wahl and save some money. In fact, even high priced trimmer and rotary shaver brands, like Norelco and Remington, can be easily repaired using a process similar to the one I used to fix my Wahl.  Read on to find out how. I opened up the Wahl by popping off the black plastic faceplate with a tiny flathead screwdriver, which revealed two screws.  By removing the two screws I was able to easily open up the unit, revealing the guts of the device. Backplate off, Revealing the screws The internals are rather simple: a motor, a...

Repairing a MagSafe Charger's Cord

Here is how to repair the cord of Apple MacSafe power adapters. There are three common failure modes of a magsafe wire: The base of the cord becomes frayed where the wire enters the power brick.  This is usually caused by repeatedly wrapping the cord far too tightly around the brick's "ears". The head of the magsafe connector becomes frayed.  This is usually caused by repeatedly removing the magsafe magnet by yanking on the cord. Chewed up cord.  This is where a pet or other pinching device weakens the cord. These types of failure are usually repairable at home using the technique described here. Tools Required: A beginner's Soldering kit, like this one, including a low-wattage soldering iron, rosin-core Solder, and wire strippers. Heat shrink tubing .   Any color works, but these days I use white to repair a MagSafe cord. One Soldering Sleeve, appropriate for 22 or 24 AWG wire Heat gun (optional.) Process:   The general process is t...

MacBook: burnt out magsafe connector repair

My MacBook (A1342 model from 2009-2010) stopped working, thanks to a cheap knockoff magsafe charger. The magsafe connector looked burnt with heat-distorted melted plastic and some black carbon surfaces.  Plugging in the charger resulted in no lights and no action.  My MacBook was dead. First I tried to clean up the connector with some Q-Tips, tooth picks and solvent, but that did little, as seen in this "after" picture (below).   The heat generated by the aftermarket charger permanently deformed and distorted the MacBook's magsafe connector.  Clearly the damage was significant. Burnt Magsafe Connector - Replacement Required! Looking at iFixIt , I determined that it would not be difficult to replace only the magsafe connector with the right tools.  I hoped and prayed that the problem was isolated to the connector assembly and not the logic board. I bought a replacement magsafe connector assembly (available from Amazon) for under $20 and started to rep...

The Trick to Properly Fixing the Rubber Feet of a MacBook Pro

A black rubber foot of my trusty old MacBook Pro finally broke off, and I didn't like how it made the laptop wobbly.  A fix was needed, and quick! First I bought some replacement feet, the kind that just stick on.   These feet are nice because there is no need open up the machine to fix a broken foot.  They're very inexpensive, and the ones I bought have adhesive tape already applied - just peal and stick.  I bought feet like the ones found here. I have read many complaints about how the adhesive doesn't stick, but I think that's because people don't know the two tricks required to get the new feet to stick properly. New Feet to replace a lost Foot Important Trick 1: Make sure to remove all remnants of the old foot - including the pieces in the hole.   My factory-installed foot was attached both mechanically and with adhesive, but when the old foot sheared off, some pieces of the old foot remained in the hole.  Those plastic bits would h...

Other Posts

Show more